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A GUIDE 






IE VIEGINIA SPRINGS: 



GIVING, IN ADDITION TO 



A 

pCRIPTION OF THE SPRINGS, 



AND ALSO OF 



THE NATURAL GURIOSITIES 



THE STATE. 



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^ 



C X'^^Ct^'w.. 



\ STAUNTON, VA.: 

ROBERT COWAN. 

I PHILADELPHIA: 

^3MAS, COWPERTHWAIT & CO. 
' ■ 1851. 



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X 



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A J 



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- I III ii nlil l — _ 



2 FEB! 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 18 

BY KOBERT COWAN, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Wesji 
District of Virginia. 



C. SHERMAN, PRINTER. 



PEEFACE. 



So frequent has been the demand for some 
Gruide to the Virginia Springs, of portable dimen- . > 
sions, and nothing of the kind having as yet 
appeared, we have been induced to compile the 
following little work, hoping to meet, in some 
measure, the wants of visiters to these Watering- 
Places. In giving the various routes, we have 
endeavoured to describe the Springs, and also the 
Natural Curiosities, as we proceed. 

Other matter than that for which we are in- 
debted to the proprietors of the Springs, has been 
gathered fi'om various publications, 

A number of books and pamphlets have been 
written about the Mineral Waters of Virginia, 



Xll PREFACE. 



but in 110 single one, we believe, has an account 
been given of so many vratering-places as in this. 

There are many other Springs in the State 
whose waters, no doubt, contain valuable medici- 
nal qualities, perhaps even exceeding several of 
which an account has been given in this work; 
but as we have not been able to get information 
with regard to them, — not knowing, in fact, even 
their localities, — we must, of course, much as we 
regret it, omit them. 

There are, doubtless, also, many other great 
natural curiosities beside those of which we have 
given a description ; but as we lay no claim to 
authorship, — merely being a compiler, — and having 
no information concerning them, we will have to 
leave them as we have done the Springs referred 
to in our last paragraph. 



February, 1851. 



GUIDE 

TO THE SPRINGS. 



ROUTES TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 

From Washington City to the Virginia Springs 
there are two main leading routes. One is 
down the Potomac River (passing in sight of 
Mount Vernon) to Acquia Creek, forty-five 
miles; thence by railroad to Fredericksburg; 
fourteen miles ] to the Junction, thirty-tseven 
miles; to Louisa Court-House, thirty-seven 
miles; to Gordonsville, thirteen miles; and to 
Charlottesville, twenty-one miles. One mile 
west of this place is the University of Virginia, 
one of the most flourishing institutions in the 
2 



14 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

Union. The buildings are fine, and in full view 
from the road. 

Three miles southeast of Charlottesville is 
Monticello, the seat of Thomas Jefferson. The 
railroad not having, as yet, been completed be- 
yond Charlottesville, we proceed thence by 
stage via Cox, Brookesville, Rockfish Gap, 
Waynesboro, and Fishersville to Staunton, thir- 
tf-aight miles. In this place are the Western 
Insane Asylum, and the Institution for the Deaf 
and Dumb and Blind, two noble state institu- 
tions. Staunton is much resorted to during the 
summer by persons from the tide-water region 
of the state. 

Stopping here, we have an opportunity of 
visiting Weyer's Cave and the Chimneys, two 
natural curiosities of this county (Augusta). 
Weyer's Cave, the most celebrated of these 
curiosities, is 17 miles northeast of Staunton. 
^' This is the most remarkable cavern at present 
known, surpassing the Grotto of Antiparos, Fin- 
gal's Cave in Staffa, and the far-famed Mam- 
moth Cave of Kentucky, which are remarkable 
only for dimensions. 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 15 

" Weyer's Cave, for its extent and variety, the 
singularity of its stalactitic concretions, the dis- 
position of its festooning, the fantastic displays 
of its drapery, and the sublimity and grandeur 
of its scenery, is not surpassed by anything in 
nature. 

^' The Guide's House is situated about eight 
hundred yards from the entrance to the Cave. 
In going from the house to the cave, you pass 
near Madison's Cave, w^hich is in the same 
ridge, and only three hundred yards from it. 
Madison's Cave was known and visited as a 
curiosity long before the discovery of Weyer's 
Cave, but is now passed by and neglected, as 
being unworthy of notice, compared with its 
more imposing rival, although it has had the 
pen of a Jefferson to describe its beauties. 

''Weyer's Cave is about 2500 feet in length, 
yet its exploration does not in a direct line ex- 
ceed 1800 feet. It is divided into several apart- 
ments of various sizes, some of which have re- 
ceived the names of 'Washington's Hall,' ' Con- 
gress Hall," Jefferson's Hall,' 'The Senate Cham- 
ber,' ' Solomon's Temple,' &c. A distinguished 



16 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

Bostonian, in writing of this Cave, says, — ' I 
have twice visited the Caverns of Matlock and 
Castleton, in Derbyshire, England, and have 
twice walked in the subterranean streets of Her- 
culaneum, in the Catacombs of Rome, the tombs 
of the Scipios, and seen the subterranean won- 
ders of the old world ; but must confess Weyer's 
Cave in Virginia exceeds them all, in the beauty 
of its natural ornaments, and in its general effect. 
It is as dry, as well graded, and as easy of ac- 
cess, as European caverns. Washington's Hall, 
with its splendid hangings, its vv^ell-wrought fret- 
work, and the wonderful freak of Nature in plac- 
ing a statue in the centre, is alone worth a 
pilgrimage to behold.' 

" ' Veni Tidi victus sum !' 

" The temperature of the Cave is 54^° of Fah- 
renheit, and never changes. It is therefore ap- 
parently warm in winter, and cool in summer. 

" Ladies should be provided with a light 
shawl, and thick shoes, in visiting this Cave." 

The other curiosity mentioned — the Cyclopean 
Towers, for many years known by the name of 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 17 



"The Chimneys/' is about 16 or 18 miles north 
of Staunton. These summits or towers, of which 
there are seven, appear like so many antique 
chimneys in the midst of a grove. They rise 
almost perpendicularly from the bed of a stream, 
to the height of about 60 or 70 feet, with projec- 
tions like Gothic cornices. 



SPRINGS. 



There are several Mineral Springs in this 
county, none of which are much visited by per- 
sons from a distance. The most noted of these 
are the August a Springs, (forme rly called Strib- 
li ng's Springs,) about 13 m iles noTtheast^ frorn 
Staunton. '• The water is strongly impregnated 
wilir~sulphuretted hydrogen, and is said to 
equal the celebrated Harrowgate, in England." 

Craw ford's Sp rings, 1 7 miles west of Staunton , 
on what is cailed the i^ree Turnpike, are also 
visited by persons from the neighbourhood, and 
said to contain valuable medicinal qualities. 



18 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

Union Spring is on the west side of the Blue 
Ridge, 20 miles east of Staunton ) and the Leba- 
non White Sulphur about 20 miles northwest 
of Staunton, on the road leading from Harrison- 
burg to the Warm Springs. 

From Staunton to the Springs in western Vir- 
ginia the route is, via Buffalo Gap 10 miles, 
Deerfield 12 miles, Cloverdale 8 miles, thence 
to Bath Alum Springs, 15 miles. 

'■'■ This new and elegant establishment is situ- 
ated at the eastern base of the Warm Spring 
Mountain, on the route through Virginia by 
way of the Valley of the great Kanawha to Point 
Pleasant and Guyandotte on the Ohio River. It 
is very pleasantly located both in point of cli- 
mate and scenery ; the atmosphere is pure, brac- 
ing, and exhilarating ; the mountain scenery di- 
versified and picturesque. To the west and 
northwest is the Big Piney Mountain ; on the 
southwest is Little Piney Mountain. These 
ranges lie parallel with the Warm Spring Moun- 
tain, and nature seems to have separated them 
'for a road to the Far West. Through the 
^gap' in these mountains the visiter enjoys a 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 19 

fine view of the celebrated ' Flag Rock,' the 
gap in the Warm Spring Mountain, and of the 
turnpike road (for about three-fourths of a 
mile) as it winds its way along the sides and 
finally reaches the summit of the mountain. 

" Eastward stretches McClung's Mountain, 
through which Thompson's Creek, sparkling 
and rapid, forces its way, giving view to Mill 
Mountain in the distance, whilst in the fore- 
ground rises Mayo's Hill, with its rich and beau- 
tiful laurel groves. 

"The buildings are situated on ground slightly 
undulating, of which 10 acres are enclosed and 
ornamented with shade trees, shrubbery, &c. ; 
and in the rear is an extensive forest reaching 
to the base of the mountain. The houses are 
disposed in the form of a crescent, of which the 
centre and principal is the Hotel. This is three 
stories high besides the basement, 90 feet front 
by 50 deep, and contains a suite of parlours, very 
handsomely furnished reception-room, reading- 
room, the ball-room, and a number of double 
and single chambers. 

'• The front is ornamented with a very elegant 



20 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

and airy double portico of ' fretwork,' furnish- 
ing an agreeable promenade to ladies and gentle- 
men above, and to the gentlemen below or on 
the first floor. 

" This central edifice is flanked east and west 
by two buildings, one at either end, correspond- 
ing with it in general appearance — ^but smaller 
in size, being but two stories high exclusive of 
basement, and 63 feet front by 40 deep. Each 
of these also has a portico of ^fretwork,' pro- 
portioned to its size as compared wdth the main 
Hotel. These buildings again are flanked at 
either extremity by four blocks of cabins or 
cottages, one story high, having small lattice 
porches in front, and harmonizing in general 
appearance with their larger and more imposing 
neighbours. But that which is of the most im- 
portance to the comfort of the sojourner is, that 
these chambers, besides being new, airy, and 
well ventilated, are furnished with the best of 
hair mattrasses. In this respect Bath Alum is 
probably not surpassed anywhere in the mineral 
regions of Virginia. Running back from the 
centre of the Hotel, in the rear of it, is the spa- 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS, 21 

cious dining-room 25 feet wide by 115 feet long, 
adapted for a double row of tables if necessary. 
The tea and store-rooms, kitchen and baker's 
rooms are east of the dining-room, and con- 
nected with it at the centre. 

'■'■ These buildings are all of brick, of superior 
workmanship, and handsomely furnished. Be- 
sides these, are provided in the background 
comfortable rooms for servants ; and across the 
creek ample stabling and carriage room. At- 
tached to the establishment are the plunge-baths, 
one 16 feet square, the other 12 feet square. 

•^'Although these improvements are all new, 
and have been put up since this property, two 
years ago, passed into the hands of its present 
energetic and liberal proprietor (Mr. John W. 
Frazier), yet the Alum Springs themselves have 
long been known for their highly medicinal 
qualities, and resorted to by people of this re- 
gion of country, and even from distant parts, in 
spite of the want of all accommodations for vi- 
siters in the immediate vicinity. 

"The Springs are formed by water perco- 
lating through a high slate bank or bluff, and 



22 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

which thus becoming impregnated with its mi- 
neral properties, is collected into basins or springs 
at the base of the rock. These are six in num- 
ber : three Alum Springs of different degrees of 
strength, one Magnesia Spring, one Chalybeate, 
and one Sulphur; sulphate of iron and alum, 
suiting themselves to most of the chronic dis- 
eases to which the human system is subject. 
For all derangements of the stomach, liver, and 
kidneys, chronic diarrhoea, chronic thrush, and 
for delicate females, these waters enjoy a wide 
and rapidly-growing reputation ; while for dis- 
eases of the skin, or cutaneous affections of 
whatever sort, they are invaluable, and perhaps 
not surpassed by any mineral waters known. 

'' To beginners the Alum Water is unpalatable 
and even .repulsive ; but as with the Sulphur, 
Saratoga and other mineral waters, so here, a 
longer acquaintance makes better friends, inso- 
much that ' old stagers' long for it as the toper 
for his bottle, and meeting with it in the cities 
would not give it in exchange for the finest 
soda-water, or the best iced lemonade." 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 23 



WARM SPRINGS. 

Five miles west of Bath Alum are the Warm 
Springs. This watering-place is delightfully- 
situated in a fertile valley, immediately at the 
western base of the Warm Spring Mountain. 
The view from the top of the Mountain is very 
beautiful and extensive. The accommodations 
at these Springs are veiy good, and sufficient 
for about 100 persons. 

The following analysis of the water is by Pro- 
fessor Rogers : " The bath is an octagon, 38 
feet in diameter, and 16 feet 9 inches wide — its 
area is 1163*77 feet. The ordinary depth of 
water being 5 feet, the cubic capacity is 5818-86 
feet, or 43533-32 gallons. Notwithstanding the 
leaks, this quantity of water wall flow into the 
reservoir in one hour. The average tempera- 
ture of the bath is 98° Fahrenheit. The gas 
which rises in the bath consists of nitrogen, with 
minute quantities of sulphuretted hydrogen and 
carbonic acid. 

"Besides this gas, each gallon of water con- 



24 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

tains 45 cubic inches of gas, consisting of nitro- 
gen, 3*25 cubic inches.; sulphuretted hydrogen, 
0'25 cubic inches; carbonic acid TOO cubic inch. 
The saline contents of one gallon of the water 
are as follows: muriate of liraCj 3-968; sulphate 
of magnesia, 9-984; carbonate of lime, 4-288; 
sulphate of lime, 5-466 ; a trace of soda, no 
doubt in the state of muriate. 

"While the Warm Springs afford the most 
luxurious bath in the world, they contain neu- 
tral salts and various gases, which act as a gen- 
tle aperient, diuretic, and sudorific, and give 
tone and vigour to the human system. It is 
well ascertained in other countries, that waters 
of a high temperature tend more to strengthen 
the digestive organs than those of a low tempe- 
rature; but it is found, by actual experiment, 
that the water at the Warm Springs retains a 
considerable portion of its useful qualities when 
bottled in the Spring, and then cooled by im- 
mersing the bottles in cold water, or even ice ; 
and this plan is adopted by many of those who 
have a repugnance to the use of warm water." 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 25 

Twelve miles east of the Warm Springs is the 
Blowing Cave. 



HOT SPRINGS. 



The next watering-place is the justly cele- 
brated Hot Springs^ five miles southwest of the 
former, and situated in the same beautiful val- 
ley. 

''There are six baths at this place, called Hot 
Spouts, each supplied with water from a sepa- 
rate spring- their highest temperature is about 
106°. These waters contain sulphate of lime, 
carbonate of lime, sulphate of soda, magnesia, 
a minute portion of muriate of iron, carbonic 
acid gas, a trace of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, 
and nitrogen gas. Taken internally, they are 
anti-acid, mildly aperient, and freely diuretic 
and diaphoretic. But when used as a general 
bath, their effects are great. They equalize' an 
unbalanced circulation, and thereby restore the 
3 



26 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

different important parts of the system when 
torpid; they relax contracted tendons, excite 
the action of the absorbent system, promote 
glandular secretion, exert a marked and salu- 
tary influence over the whole biliary system, 
and often relieve in a short time, excruciating 
pain caused by palpable and long-standing dis- 
ease of some vital organ. 

"The beneficial effects of hot spouts, topically 
applied, are so miraculous, in many painful and 
obstinate complaints, that words cannot ade- 
quately describe them. 

"The effect of this bath on rheumatic and 
gouty affections, and on old, deep-seated, and 
chronic complaints, that medicine does not 
seem to reach, is very beneficial. It restores 
the surface to a good condition, and promotes 
the healthy action of the skin; and every person 
who drinks the water of the various sulphur 
springs, should afterwards stop here two or three 
weeks, and try the virtue of the boiler. There 
are, near the hotel, a hot and a cold spring issuing 
BO near each other, that you can dip the thumb 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 27 

and fore-finger of the same hand into hot and 
cold water at the same time. 

" These Springs are owned by Dr. Goode, 
who resides on the premises, and directs in the 
management. There are comfortable bathing 
houses for the accommodation both of male 
and female patients, in each of which suitable 
arrangements are made for taking the sweet 
or plunge bath • or for receiving douche when 
required." 

The Hotel is well kept, which with a number 
of comfortable cabins aifords accommodations 
for about 175 persons. 

From the Hot Springs we proceed to Cala- 
han's, 20 miles, from thence to the White Sul- 
phur, in Greenbrier County, 15 miles. This is 
the most celebrated watering-place in Virginia. 
"It is situated on the western declivity of the 
Alleghany Mountain, some 6 or 8 miles from 
the summit, and 35 miles southwest of the Hot 
Springs, in an extensive and beautiful valley. 
Nature has made this one of the most enchant- 
ing spots in the mountains of Virginia. The 
lawn and walks cover perhaps 50 acres. A 



28 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

short distance from the Spring are the hotel, 
the dining-hall, and the ball-room : the rest of 
the ground is principally occupied with cabins 
and cottages. These are in rows, one story- 
high, built of wood, brick, and hewed logs. 
These beautiful rows of buildings are designat- 
ed South Carolina Row, Virginia Row, Alabama 
Row, Louisiana Row, Paradise Row, Baltimore 
Row, &c^ 

"The principal spring yields about 18 gallons 
per minute ; and it is a remarkable fact that this 
quantity is not perceptibly increased or dimi- 
nished during the longest spells of wet or dry 
weather; while other bold springs of the country 
have failed during the long droughts of the 
summer, this has invariably observed the even 
tenor of its way. There is no discoloration 
of the water during long wet spells, or other 
evidences that it becomes blended with com- 
mon water percolating through the earth. The 
quantity and temperature of this spring being 
uniform under all circumstances, gives a confi- 
dence, which experience in its use has verified, 
of its uniform strength and efficiency. 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 29 

" The present proprietor of this property came 
into possession of it in the year 1808, but did 
not personally undertake its improvement until 
the summer of 1818. Before this period, the 
buildings for the accommodation of visiters, al- 
though sufficient for the number of persons that 
then resorted to the place, were exceedingly 
rude, being altogether small wooden huts. The 
interest and enterprise of the proprietor, soon led 
him into a different and more appropriate system 
of improvement, and from small beginnings he 
has gone on, progressing in the rapid ratio of 
demand, until, from the ' tent' accommodations 
in 1779, and the Hog-cabin' in 1784, the place 
now. both in elegance and extent, exhibits the 
appearance of a neat and flourishing village, 
affording comfortable and convenient accom- 
modations, (including the surrounding hotels,) 
for from twelve to fifteen hundred persons." 
For a full account of the White Sulphur Springs, 
we refer the reader to a work written by Dr. 
Moorman, from which we have taken the li- 
berty of extracting one or two paragraphs. The 
White Sulphur Water has been analyzed by 
3* 



30 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



Professor Rogers, and the result of his exami- 
nation is as follows : — 

" Solid matter procured by evaporation from 
100 cubic inches of White Sulphur Water, 
weighed, after being dried at 212°, 65-54 grains. 



Quantity of each solid ingredient in 100 cubic inches, estimated 
as perfectly free from water. 

Sulphate of lime, . . 

Sulphate of magnesia, 

Sulphate of soda, . . 

Carhonate of linje, . . 

Carbonate of magnesia, 

Chloride of magnesium, 

Chloride of calcium, . 

Chloride of sodium, . 

Protosulphate of iron. 

Sulphate of alumine, . 

Earthy phosphates, a trace. 

Azotized organic matter blended 
with a large proportion of sul- 
phur, about 5 grains. 

Iodine combined with sodium or 
magnesium. 



31-680 


grains 


8-241 


a 


4-050 


a 


1-530 


(C 


0-506 


Cl 


0-071 


(I 


0-010 


ii 


0-226 


it 


0-069 


a 


0-012 


iC 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 31 



Volume of each of the gases in a free state, contained in 100 
cubic inches. 

Sulphuretted hydrogen, . 0-66 to 1-30 cubic inches. 

Nitrogen, 1-88 « « 

Oxygen, 0-19 « " 

Carbonic acid, 3-67 " " 

^^The White Sulphur Water is peculiarly 
adapted to chronic affections of the organic 
system. 

" It is highly beneficial in diseases of the sto- 
mach, liver, spleen, kidneys, bladder, — s»me 
derangements of the nervous system, — female 
disorders, — and scrofula, neuralgia, and rheu- 
matism." 

Nine miles west of the White Sulphur Springs 
is Lewisburg, the next place on our route. This 
is the county seat of Greenbrier, a flourishing 
town, and the most important in this region of 
country. The Court of Appeals holds its sum- 
mer session in this place. 



32 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



BLUE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

Thirteen miles west of Lewisburg and in the 
same comity are the Blue Sulphur Springs: 
this is also a popular watering-place. There 
are considerable improvements here, and the 
situation is one of great natural beauty. The 
water tastes somewhat like that of the White 
Sulphur. The analysis of this water, by Profes- 
sor Rogers, is as follows : — 

Solid Ingredients. 

Sulphate of lime, 

Sulphate of magnesia, 

Sulphate of soda, 

Carbonate of lime. 

Carbonate of magnesia, 

Chloride of magnesium, 

Chloride of sodium. 

Chloride of calcium, 

Hydrosulphate of sodium and magnesium, 

Oxide of iron, existing as protosulphate. 

Iodine, 

Sulphur, 

Organic matters. 

Gaseous ingredients, 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 33 

Sulphuretted hydrogen, 
Carbonic acid, 
Oxygen, 
Nitrogen. 

" The Spring is a bold one, furnishing fifteen 
gallons of water to the minute. There is a great 
deal of red, white, black, and other deposit 
from the water. In female diseases this water 
is superior to many others." 

Three hundred persons can be accommo- 
dated at the Blue Sulphur. 



SWEET SPRINGS. 



In the county of Monroe, in one of the most 
beautiful valleys by nature in Western Virginia, 
seventeen miles southeast of the White Sulphur, 
are the Sweet Springs. The improvements 
here are extensive and comfortable, but not so 
handsome as some of the other watering-places. 

Dr. Bell, in his work on Baths and Mineral 



34 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

Waters, describes the medicinal properties of 
these waters as follows: 

" The water of the spring rises into a large 
cylindrical reservoir, from opposite sides of 
which it flows out by small pipes ; one convey- 
ing water to the bath for the men, the other to 
that for the ladies. The men's bath is of a 
quadrangular form, surrounded by a wall, and 
open at the top. It is of tolerable extent and 
clear — the bottom being of gravel, and the water 
constantly flowing in, and as constandy passing 
out, after it reaches a certain height. 

^' The temperature of the Sweet Spring is 73° 
Fahrenheit, the same as that which, in England, 
by a strange blunder, is called Bristol Hot Well. 
There is considerable resemblance between the 
two in other respects, as well in the evolution 
of carbonic acid, as in the earthy and saline 
matters held in solution. In the Virginia Spring, 
however, iron has been detected, whereas the 
Bristol Hot Well has none in its composition. 

" One quart of this water by Rowelle's analy- 
sis contains : — 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 35 

Saline substances in general, . . . 12 to 15 grains, 

Earthy substances, 18 " 24 " 

Iron, i " 1 grain. 

"The saline substances are, sulphate of mag- 
nesia, muriate of soda, and muriate of lime, 
with a little sulphate of lime. The earthy mat- 
ters consist of sulphate of lime, a small portion 
of carbonate of magnesia and lime, with a small 
portion of silicious earth. 

"This water is serviceable in dyspepsia, dys- 
entery, diarrhcea, cough, and all calculous and 
nephritic complaints.'' 

The following is from a writer who describes 
a morning's ride from the White Sulphur to the 
Sweet Springs : '•' We left the White Sulphur 
long before the inhabitants of Paradise Row 
were stirring, and in a little while our dapples 
were winding their way through some of the 
finest scenery romance or poetry had ever pic- 
tured. Over a smooth beaten road, which 
seemed to have been carved through the moun- 
tains, like the pass of Mount Athos, we went 
on, with woodland steeps on each side of us, 
and afar for many miles in front, we had a re- 



36 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

freshing perspective in the high green hills. Oc- 
casionally, in coming to a turn in the road, some 
new wonder would open before us. At one 
time we were bordered on each hand by a rocky 
palisade of some hundred feet in height. And 
again, where the road was more narrow, we 
passed under natural arbours, formed by the 
meeting of the tops of the bending trees from 
each side of the way, and where the laurel was 
twining its own laurels on the branches. 

'■^ A ride of ten miles brought us to Crow's, 
with a relish for breakfast, or anything else that 
might be offered us. 

"This is the place where so many excursions 
are made from the Springs, for dinner parties 
and picnics. The tavern stands on the corner 
of the road at the foot of a mountain, and the 
sign-board swings out in front, after the man- 
ner of Nicholas Vedder of old, and many a Rip 
Van Winkle can be found in the whereabouts, 
who knows the legends of the neighbourhood. '^ 
Leaving Crow's, he continues : — " We left the 
picturesque behind us, and for the next six 
miles of our journey, we passed through a more 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 37 

cultivated country, with many large fields of 
waving wheat tops and corn blade. Within a 
mile or two of the Sweet, we came to what is 
called the Red Spring, an old dilapidated build- 
ing, gray with age, and all its windows shat- 
tered. 

"Before 12 o'clock we entered the smiling 
valley of the Sweet Springs. Whoever comes 
to the mountains, should make a visit to the 
Sweet Springs, if but for one day. Much of the 
scenery in the neighbourhood is of the most 
beautiful and refreshing kind, and the whole 
place is redolent of life and animation, particu- 
larly at a time when thronging with company." 

The accommodations at this place are suffi- 
cient for about 400 persons. 



RED SPRINGS. 



One mile nearer the White Sulphur are the 
Red Springs, or Sweet Chalybeate. This place 
4 



38 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

has of late years been acquiring considerable 
notoriety. 

About 200 persons can be comfortably ac- 
commodated here. '''The waters are said to be 
good in neuralgia, and in rheumatic complaints. 
There are two springs here, the one near the 
hotel, essentially the same with the Sweet 
Springs, the other containing a larger quantity 
of iron, which being deposited about the spring 
in the form of red precipitate, has given the 
name of Red Spring. Professor Rogers' analy- 
sis of this water gives : — 

"1st. Solid matter procured by evaporation 
from 100 cubic inches, weighed, after being 
greatly dried at 112°, 40-76. 

" A portion of this is combined water. 

'' 2d. Quantity of each solid ingredient esti- 
mated as perfectly free from water : — 

In 100 cubic inches. 

Sulphate of lime, 14-233 

Sulphate of magnesia, 3-107 

Sulphate of soda, . 1-400 

Carbonate of lime, 1-166 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 39 

Chloride of sodium, 0-037 

Chloride of magnesium, 0-680 

Chloride of calcium, 0-010 

Sesquioxide of iron, 0-320 

Organic matter in small quantities. 
Iodine, a mere trace. 

'■'■ The iron is no doubt dissolved in the water 
as a carbonate. 

'^ 3d. Volume of each of the gases contained 
in a free state, in 100 cubic inches of water: — 

Carbonic acid, .... 46-10 cubic inches. 

Nitrogen, 2-57 « « 

Oxygen, -20 « " 

Sulphuretted hydrogen, 
a trace, too small to 
be mentioned. 

" 4th. Composition of 100 inches of the mixed 
gases rising in bubbles in the Spring: — 

Nitrogen, 62-5 

Carbonic acid, ......... 37-5 

" The temperature of the Red Spring is from 
77° to 80° Fahrenheit." 



40 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



SALT SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

In the County of Monroe, twenty-six miles 
southwest from the White Sulphur, are the Salt 
Sulphur Springs; they are two miles from Union, 
the county seat. From a pamphlet written by 
Dr. Mutter of Philadelphia, we copy the follow- 
ing account of these Springs : 

" The Salt Sulphur Springs, three in number, 
are situated in the county of Monroe, in 37^° 
north latitude, 5° longitude west of Philadelphia, 
and at an elevation of about 1400 feet above 
tide water. All the springs are situated on 
' Indian Creek,' a small limestone stream, which 
rises in a valley a few hundred yards above the 
Old or Sweet Spring, and after pursuing its 
'devious way' for about 23 miles in a southwest 
direction, finally empties into New River, in 
Monroe County. It derives its name from the 
circumstance of the Indians, who, in former 
times were in the habit of entering the valley 
of Virginia from Kentucky and Ohio, almost in- 
variably making it their ^ Camping Stream.' Their 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 41 

graves, along with other traces of theu' frequent 
resort to this particular spot, are occasionally 
met with at the present day. 

^'The Salt Sulphur is hemmed in on every 
side by mountains. To the south and east, in 
full view, and about 10 miles distant, is Peters 
Mountain; due north, and about 14 miles 
distant, is a low spur of the Alleghany; and 
west, it is bounded by Swope's Mountain, at or 
near the base of which, are the two principal 
springs. 

" It appears from the statement of some of 
the '- oldest inhabitants,' that the Old or Sweet 
Spring was discovered in 1802 or 1803 by Alex- 
ander Hutchinson, Esq., who was engaged in 
boring for salt along Indian Creek. For several 
years it enjoyed much celebrity, and was an- 
nually the resort of a large company. 

" The house occupied as the hotel, and several 
of the old cabins, are still standing. The open- 
ing of the Salt Sulphur Spring, the medical pro- 
perties of which are so much more strongly 
marked, and the erection of commodious build- 
ings near it, soon destroyed the fame of the 
4* 



42 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

Sweet, the water of which at the present time 
is used almost exclusively for the baths, al- 
though there are some individuals who still pre- 
fer it to that of either the Salt or New^ Spring. 
To gratify such, and at the same time to test 
the value of the vrater, the enterprising proprie- 
tors, in the summer of 1839, caused the spring 
to be deepened and thoroughly repaired. At 
present it is enclosed in a white marble reser- 
voir, two feet square by two feet four inches in 
depth, oyer which is erected a neat w^ooden 
edifice, of an order ' sui generis.' In taste, smell, 
colour, and constituents, it closely resembles 
the Salt Spring, but is much more feeble as a 
remedial agent, which is to be attributed to its 
containing a smaller quantity of the active prin- 
ciples common to both. 

'^ The second spring, or the Salt Sulphur pro- 
per, was discovered in 1805^ by Erwiu Benson, 
Esq. He was induced to believe that either 
sulphur or salt might be found in considerable 
quantities at the spot now occupied by the 
spring, from the fact of its being the favourite 
Mick,' of immense herds of buffalo and deer. 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 43 

Under this impression he began boring, and 
penetrated but a short distance below the sur- 
face, when he struck the vein of sulphur water, 
now constituting the spring. Like the old, this 
spring is enclosed in a marble reservoir, two 
feet square, and about two feet ten inches deep, 
but from the boldness of its sources, it is pro- 
bable, that this spring will be enlarged. It is 
protected from the influence of the weather, 
by a neat and appropriate edifice, furnished 
with seats. The water possesses all the sensible 
properties of the sulphur waters in genera] ] its 
odour, for instance, is very like that of a ' tolerable 
egg,' and may, in certain states of the atmo- 
sphere, be perceived at some distance from the 
spring, and in taste it is cousin-german to a 
strong solution of Epsom salts and magnesia. 
In a short time, however, strange to say, these 
disagreeable properties are either not observed, 
or become on the other hand, attractive \ indeed, 
there is hardly an instance of an individuaFs 
retaining his original repugnance to them longer 
than three or four days, and some there are, 
who become so excessively fond of the water; 



44 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

as to give it the preference over any other liquid. 
Like most of the sulphurous, this water is per- 
fectly transparent, and deposits a whitish sedi- 
ment composed of its various saline ingredients 
mingled with sulphur. It is also for the most 
part placid; occasionally, however, it is dis- 
turbed by a bubble of gas which steals slowly 
to the surface, where it either explodes with a 
timid and dimpling smack, or is eagerly caught 
up by some careworn and almost world-weary 
invalid, as a gem from the treasury of Hygeia!'" 



Analysis of the Salt Sulphur Springs^ hy Professor 
Rogers. 

"Temperature variable from 49° to 56°, 
Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 
cubic inches, w^eighed after being dried at 212°, 
81*41 grains. 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 45 



Quantity of each solid ingredient in 100 ciibic inches, estimated 
as perfectly free from water. 

1. Sulphate of lime, 36-755 grains. 

2. Sulphate of magnesia, .... 7*883 " 

3. Sulphate of soda, 9-682 " 

4. Carbonate of lime, 4:*445 " 

5. Carbonate of magnesia, .... 1-434 " 

6. Chloride of magnesium, .... 0-116 " 

7. Chloride of sodium, 0-683 " 

8. Chloride of calcium, 0-025 " 

9. Peroxide of iron derived from 

protosulphate, 0-042 " 

10. An azotized organic matter 

blended with sulphur, about . -004 « 

11. Earthy phosphates, a trace. 

12. Iodine, a trace. 



Volume of each of the gases, contained in a free state, 100 
cvMc inches. 

Sulphuretted Hydrogen, . 1-10 to 1-50 cubic inches. 

Nitrogen, 2-05 " " 

Oxygen, 0-27 " " 

Carbonic acid, 5-75 " " 

" I enclose you a list of the ingredients in the 
Salt Sulphur water, which applies to the New 



46 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

as well as the Old Spring; the former having 
rather a smaller amount of saline matter in 
general, though in some ingredients surpassing 
the other. It has been very minutely analyzed, 
and is the first of all the v^aters in which I was 
able to detect traces of iodine, which it contains 
in a larger amount than the Old Spring, and, 
indeed, most of the other waters in which 
I have been so fortunate as to discover this 
mineral. 



Diseases to which the Salt Sulphur is ajpplicahle. 

'' Chronic diseases of the brain, neuralgia, 
nervous diseases, chronic diseases of the chest, 
disease of the heart, chronic diseases of the 
abdominal viscera, hepatic affections, chronic 
splenitis, chronic gastric irritation, gastralgia, 
or nervous dyspepsia, pyrosis, or water brash, 
chronic irritation of the bowels, constipation, 
hemorrhoids, chronic diseases of the urinary 
organs, chronic diseases of the genitals, chronic 
rheumatism and gout, mercurial rheumatism, 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 47 

periostitis and inflammation of the bones, chronic 
diseases of the skin, &c." 



RED SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

The Red Sulphur Springs are situated in the 
County of Monroe, 43 miles southwest of the 
White Sulphur, and 17 miles west of the Salt 
Sulphur. 

The improvements at this place are very 
handsome, and afford accommodation for three 
hundred and fifty persons. The following is 
from a pamphlet, written by Dr. Hunt of Wash- 
ington City: 

" The Red Sulphur Spring is situated in lati- 
tude 37° 37', about 20 miles southwest of Union, 
which is the seat of justice for the county. The 
approach to the village is beautifully romantic 
and picturesque. Wending his way around a 
high mountain, the weary traveller is for a 
moment charmed out of his fatigue by the 



48 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

sudden view of his resting-place, some hundreds 
of feet immediately beneath him. Continuing 
the circuitous descent, he at length reaches a 
ravine, which conducts him, after a few rugged 
steps, to the entrance of a verdant glen, sur- 
rounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The 
south end of this enchanting vale, which is the 
widest portion of it, is about 200 feet in width. 
Its course is nearly north for about 150 yards, 
when it begins gradually to contract, and changes 
its direction to the northwest and west, until it 
terminates in a narrow point. This beautiful 
secluded Tempe is the chosen site of the village. 
The northwest portion is occupied by stables, 
carriage-houses, and shops of various sorts • the 
southern portion, just at the base of the east 
and west mountains, is that upon which stand 
the various edifices for the accommodation of 
visiters. 

^' These buildings are spacious and conve- 
niently arranged, the servants are prompt and 
obedient, and the 'table d'hote' is abundantly 
supplied with every variety of viands that can 
tempt the appetite. The promenades, which 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 49 

are neatly enclosed by a white railing, are 
beautifully embellished, and shaded from the 
midday sun by indigenies of the forest, — the 
large, umbrageous sugar maple. The spring is 
situated at the southwest point of the valley, 
and the water is collected into two white marble 
fountains, over which is thrown a substantial 
cover. 

"At the distance of a few hundred yards 
from the Red Sulphur Spring, up the south 
ravine, there is another spring, supposed to be 
a chalybeate, of a singular character. 

" In a conversation with Mr. Harvey, a plain, 
honest, and sensible man, who was the former 
proprietor of the Red Sulphur Spring, I gathered 
the following facts, which I give in his own 
words. He stated, ' That he had lived at and 
about the place for upwards of forty-three 
years. The spring was first visited by the 
neighbours for itch, sore legs, and other invete- 
rate diseases of the skin, which were always 
cured by drinking the water, and rubbing the 
parts affected with the muddy deposit. About 
thirty-six years ago, Dr. John Cabell, of Lynch- 
5 



50 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

burg, Va., was the first person who visited the 
spring for a cough and disease of the throat, 
attended with chills and fevers. He remained 
here several weeks, and returned home much 
better. The next season several other persons 
came, with cough and every appearance of 
consumption. Afterwards, the number of visi- 
ters afflicted with this disease increased every 
year. There are many persons now living, 
within my knowledge (said Mr. Harvey), and 
enjoying excellent health, who visited this spring 
many years ago, to all appearance in the last 
stage of consumption. The visiters who were 
most benefited by the water remained here five 
or six weeks, confined themselves to a diet of 
rye mush and milk, and were industrious in 
rising early, drinking the water, and taking 
exercise. Others, who indulged themselves in 
eating, sleeping late in the morning, and loung- 
ing about during the day, derived but little ad- 
vantage from the use of the water, and gene- 
rally returned home dissatisfied. The cold 
plunging or shock bath, was used in those 
days with decided advantage. I never knew a 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 51 

case injured by the use of the cold bath. Many 
cases of dropsy visited the spring, and I never 
knew an instance where they were not relieved 
by the use of the water. One of my neighbours 
was cured many years ago by the use of this 
water, and now enjoys excellent health. I have 
known many persons affected with complaints 
of the liver and bowels, completely relieved by 
the Red Sulphur water. From the first of May 
to the middle of November is the proper time 
for using the water to advantage, but I think it 
strongest, in its various virtues, during the 
months of September and October.' 

" The following was presented to me by Dr. 
Saunders, the resident physician, as an analysis 
of the Red Sulphur water, made at the spring 
by Professor Rogers, the geologist of Virginia ; 
but it certainly does not satisfactorily account 
for the wonderful effects of the water. 

Temperature of the Spring, 54° Fahr. 

Gaseous contents in an imperial gallon. 

Sulphuretted hydrogen, . . 4-54 cubic inches. 

Carbonic acid, 8-75 " " 

Nitrogen, 4-25 « « 



52 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

" Solid contents of 32 cubic inches of water, 
grains r25, consisting of sulphate of soda, lime 
and magnesia, carbonate of lime, and muriate 
of soda. Besides these ingredients the v^'ater 
contains, in considerable quantity, a peculiar 
organic substance which, mingled with sulphur, 
is deposited on the sides of the spring, and 
seems to increase by a species of organic 
growth. 

'^ The Red Sulphur water is decidedly sedative 
in its effects. It subdues chronic inflammation, 
tranquillizes irritation, and reduces the frequency 
of the pulse in the most astonishing manner. 

" It is not uncommon for persons to arrive at 
the spring, who have not been able to sleep 
during the night, even with the aid of opium, 
and who, after drinking the water for a few 
days, find their nervous irritation so soothed 
and allayed, that no other anodyne is required 
to procure them full repose for the night. 

" This water has been considered peculiarly 
adapted to the cure of pulmonary diseases, and 
it is true that it has a most beneficial influence 
in most cases of this disease ; but its good 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 53 

effects equally extend to all cases of subacute 
inflammation, whether seated in the stomach, 
liver, spleen, intestines, kidneys, or bladder, 
and most particularly in the mucous membrane- 
In fact, nature never yet gave to man a remedy 
capable of more extensive application, nor better 
calculated to relieve a larger class of diseases. 

''The late venerable Dr. R. H. Bradford, of 
Virginia, who practised medicine for many years 
at the Red Sulphur, in a communication on the 
subject of the water, remarks — ' The effect of 
this water in reducing the frequency of the 
pulse, is one of the numerous, singular, and 
powerful properties belonging to it. It lessens 
arterial action to such a degree, that it seldom 
fails to remove fever, difficulty of breathing, and 
pain in the chest. When the patient is restricted 
to a proper regimen, this water may be taken 
with greater advantage in all pulmonary cases, 
than any other remedy I have ever employed 
for that purpose. It is also an important remedy 
in enlarged liver and spleen, and in diseases of 
the mucous membrane generally.' 

" The water of the Red Sulphur seems to act 
5* 



54 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

by soothing irritation, lessening the frequency 
of the pulse, and by subduing the inflammation 
of the tissues in contact with the tubercles, and 
thereby rendering the tubercles harmless ] and 
also by suspending that tendency of the system 
to generate or deposit tuberculous matter. 

"The Red Sulphur water may be used with 
the most decided benefit in obstinate cases of 
bowel complaint, gleet, leucorrhoea, catarrh of 
the bladder, and uterine derangement." 



ROUTE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS. 

The other route from Washington City to the 
Virginia Springs is by railroad to Harper's Ferry, 
104 miles. Stopping at this place, the traveller 
has an opportunity of viewing the " Passage of 
the Potomac through the Blue Ridge, "which, says 
Mr. Jefferson, " is one of the most stupendous 
scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point 
of land; on your right up comes the Shenan- 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 55 

doah, having ranged along the foot of the moun- 
tain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your 
left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a pas- 
sage also; in the moment of their junction they 
rush together against the mountain, rend it 
asunder, and pass off to the sea. The first 
glance of this scene hurries our senses into the 
opinion that this earth has been created in 
time; that the mountains were formed first; 
that the rivers began to flow afterwards ; that in 
this place particularly, they have been dammed 
up by the Blue Ridge Mountains, and have 
formed an ocean which filled the whole valley ; 
that, continuing to rise, they have at length 
broken over at this spot, and have torn the 
mountain down from its summit to its base. 
The piles of rock on each hand, particularly on 
the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their 
disrupture and avulsion from their beds by the 
most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the 
impression. But the distant finishing which 
Nature has given to the picture is of a very dif- 
ferent character; it is a true contrast to the fore- 
ground ; it is as placid and delightful as that is 



56 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

wild and tremendous; for the mountain being 
cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through 
the clefts, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, 
at an infinite distance in the plain country, in- 
viting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult 
warring around, to pass through the breach and 
participate of the calm below. There the eye 
ultimately composes itself, and that way, too, 
the road happens actually to lead. You cross 
the Potomac above the junction, pass along its 
side through the base of the mountain for three 
miles, its terrible precipices hanging in frag- 
ments over you, and within about twenty miles 
reach Fredericktown, and the fine country round 
that. The scene is worth a voyage across the 
Atlantic, yet here, as in the neighbourhood of 
the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed 
their lives within half a dozen miles, and have 
never been to survey these monuments of a 
war between rivers and mountains, which must 
have shaken the earth itself to its centre.' 

" From Harper's Ferry, we take the cars to 
Charlestown, 10 miles. Leaving the cars at this 
place, an opportunity is afforded of visiting 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 57 



SHANNONDALE SPRINGS 



"Another of the celebrated watering-places 
of Virginia. 

'^They are in Jefferson County, five miles 
south from Charlestown, on an eminence of 
the Shenandoah, in a healthy and delightful 
region. The reputation of the water is so well 
established, that it is deemed scarcely neces- 
sary to mention its qualities. It is sent for and 
taken to New York, Charleston, and other dis- 
tant places. The analysis of the late Dr. De 
Butts, in 1821, classed the principal fountain 
with the saline chalybeates, — a combination of the 
most valuable description in the whole range of 
mineral waters, and closely resembling those of 
the celebrated Bedford, in composition, ope- 
ration, and efficacy. There is also a highly 
valuable sulphur spring in the vicinity. Apart 
from the merits of the waters, Shannondale is 
remarkable for the sublime and beautiful natural 
scenery, which is said to surpass Bath and Bristol 



58 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

in England, and that of Saratoga and Ballston in 
New York." 

Returning to Charlestown, we again take the 
cars for Winchester, 22 miles. This is a very 
flourishing town, and the largest in the valley 
of Virginia. Here ends railroad travelling on 
this route. Twenty-two miles west from this 
place, in Hampshire County, are 



CAPON SPRINGS. 

The following account of these springs is 
copied from an advertisement of June, 1850. 

^- The high reputation of the waters of the 
' Capon Spring' is not permanently established, 
but is yearly increasing, particularly in cases of 
dyspepsia, general debility, &c. 

^' Its convenience of access renders it an 
available point for invalids, or persons who are 
not disposed to undergo the fatigues of a long 
journey, over rough and dusty roads, in the heat 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 59 

of summer. Being near the route to the White 
Sulphur, in Greenbrier, it will be a delightful 
resting-place for persons visiting those cele- 
brated springs. The well-attested, cool, dry 
mountain atmosphere of ' Capon ;' the fine sul- 
phur and chalybeate waters in its immediate 
vicinity ; its neighbouring trout streams and 
river fishing ; its shaded walks and drives, (now 
being constructed,) with the usual amusements 
of a mountain watering-place, impart to it some 
of its attractions and claims on the public, and 
fully establishes it as one of the most agreeable 
as well as accessible summer retreats in this 
country, either for the seekers of health or 
pleasure." 

This watering-place not being on the main 
valley route, we return to Winchester. Six miles 
north of this glace are 



Jordan's white sulphur springs. 
This watering-place has lately come into 



€0 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

noticGj and is growing in popular favour. The 
water is said to resemble the celebrated White 
Sulphur Spring of Greenbrier. Again returning 
to Winchester, we proceed on our way upon 
the macadamized road up the beautiful valley 
of Virginia to Newtown, 8 miles, Strasburg. 10 
miles, Woodstock, 11^ miles. Eighteen miles 
from this, in Shenandoah County, are the 



ORKNEY, OR YELLOW SPRINGS. 

''These waters are composed of several lively 
springs, and are strongly chalybeate. Every- 
thing the water passes through, or over, is 
beautifully lined with a bright yellow fringe or 
moss. The use of this water is found bene- 
ficial for the cure of several complaints. A 
free use of this water acts as a most powerful 
cathartic, as does also a small quantity of the 
fringe, or moss mixed with common water." 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 61 

Returning to Woodstock, we once more take 
the macadamized road, to Mount Jackson, 13 
miles, Newmarket, 7 miles, Spartapolis, 6^ 
miles, Harrisonburg, 11 miles. Twelve miles 
from this place is 



rawley's spring. 

The following account of this watering-place 
is given by Dr. Moorman, in his work on the 
White Sulphur Springs. 

" Rawley's Spring is situated on the southern 
slope of the North Mountain, in the county of 
Rockingham, 12 miles northwest from Harri- 
sonburg, and about 120 miles northeast from 
the White Sulphur. The Rawley water is a 
strong and pure chalybeate^ and well adapted to 
cases requiring such a tonic. 

'^ The writer has had some experience in the 
use of this water, and for many years has been 
in the habit of occasionally directing its use in 
6 



62 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

cases to which it is applicable. As a pure iron 
tonic, it deserves to stand at the very head of 
that class of remedies. 

" In that class of female affections, dependent 
upon debility or want of tone in the uterine 
system, this water is an exceedingly valuable 
remedy. Its salutary effects in cases of this 
description are often as remarkable as they are 
gratifying, restoring the functions of the debili- 
tated organ, and imparting vigour and health to 
the whole system." 

From Harrisonburg we proceed to Mount 
Crawford, 8 miles. Mount Sidney, 7 miles, 
thence to Staunton, 10 miles. 

Leaving the macadamized road at Harrison- 
burg, visiters to the springs frequently travel, 
via the Augusta Springs, to the Warm Springs, 
60 miles, thereby shortening the distance about 
14 miles. 

Another route, via Staunton, to the springs, is 
to Lexington, 35 miles. This is the prettiest 
town in the valley of Virginia. Here are located 
Washington College and the " Virginia Military 
Institute," both flourishing institutions. The 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 63 

Natural Bridge is 15 miles southwest of Lex- 
ington; and 17 miles west of Lexington are the 



ROCKBRIDGE ALUM SPRINGS 



On the "stage road to the Bath Alum and the 
Warm Springs, in Bath County. The improve- 
ments here are new and comfortable, sufficient 
to accommodate about one hundred persons. 

"This water contains a rare and valuable 
combination of materials ; the principal are 
iodine, sulphates of iron and alum, magnesia, 
and sulphuric acid. The water is tonic, in- 
creasing the appetite and promoting digestion; 
it is alterative, exciting the secretions of the 
glandular system generally, and particularly of 
the liver and kidneys ; it is cathartic, producing 
copious bilious evacuations ; and it also effects 
a determination to the surface, increasing the 
perspiration. 

"From the efficacy of these waters in puri- 



64 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

fying the blood, they are invaluable in the cure 
of all diseases of the skin, and all indolent 
sores, not disposed to a healthy action. In the 
use of them for such diseases, if the disease of 
the skin appears to be irritated at first, or if the 
ulcers become more inflamed, and discharge 
more freely, let not this circumstance alarm 
any one, or deter him from persevering in their 
use. These are the evidences of "the good 
effects of the waters, in expelling the vitiated 
humours from the blood to the surface, and, 
until the blood is purified, such diseases cannot 
be cured. In scrofulous ulcers, the use of these 
waters invariably causes them to discharge more 
freely, and in a short time of a more healthy 
appearance. They are a very useful remedy in 
cholera infantum, or the summer bowel com- 
plaint in children. They immediately give a 
good appetite, promote digestion, and will effec- 
tually correct and cure acidity of the stomach. 
In amenorrhoea, dysmenorrhoea, and leucorrhoea, 
the waters are peculiarly efficacious. Most ob- 
stinate cases of scrofula, erysipelas, and dys- 
pepsia, have been cured by these waters, which 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 65 

preserve their medicinal qualities when sent 
away in barrels." 



ROUTES FROM RICHMOND. 

From Richmond the routes to the Springs 
are, railroad to the junction, 27 miles, and from 
thence to Charlottesville as already given : or by 
James River Canal to Scottsville, 79 miles, and 
from thence by stage to Brooksville, 25 miles; 
or continuing on the canal to Lynchburg, 67 
miles, and thence by stage to the Natural 
Bridge, 38 miles. 

This celebrated curiosity is in the county of 
Rockbridge. It crosses a small stream called 
'^ Cedar Creek." Howe, in his Sketches of 
Virginia, has the following eloquent description, 
which was published originally in Europe. 

"This famous bridge is on the head of a fine 
limestone hill, which has the appearance of 
having been rent asunder by some terrible con- 
6* 



66 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

vulsion in nature. The fissure thus made is 
about 90 feet; and over it the bridge runs, so 
needful to the spot, and so unlikely to have 
survived the great fracture, as to seem the work 
of man; so simple, so grand, so great, as to 
assure you that it is only the work of God. 
The span of the arch runs from 45 to 60 feet 
wide ; and its height, to the underline is about 
200 feet, and to the head about 240! The 
form of the arch approaches to the elliptical, 
and it is carried over a diagonal line, the very 
line of all others so difficult to the architect to 
realize, and yet so calculated to enhance the 
picturesque beauty of the object. 

" There are chiefly three points of sight. You 
naturally make your way to the head of the 
bridge first, and as it is a continuation of the 
common road, with its sides covered with fine 
shrubs and trees, you may be on it before you 
are aware ; but the moment you approach through 
the foliage to the side you are filled with appre- 
hension. It has, indeed, a natural parapet, but 
few persons can stand forward and look over. 
You instinctively seek to reduce your height, 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 67 

that you may gaze on what you admire with, 
security. Even then it agitates you with dizzy 
sensations. You then make your way some 
fifty feet down the bosom of the hill, and are 
supplied with some admirable standings on the 
projecting rockwork, to see the bridge and all 
its rich accompaniments. There is, 200 feet 
below you, the Cedar Creek, apparently motion- 
less, except where it flashes with light as it cuts 
its way through the broken rocks. Mark the 
trees of every variety, but especially the fir, 
how they diminish as they stand on the margin 
of its bed ; and how they ascend, step by step, 
on the noble rockwork, till they overshadow 
you, still preserving such delicacy of form and 
growth, as if they would not do an injury while 
they lend a grace. Observe those hills, gathering 
all around you in their fairest forms and richest 
verdure, as if to do honour to a scene of sur- 
passing excellence. Now look at the bridge 
itself, springing from this bed of verdant loveli- 
ness, distinct, one, complete ! It is before you 
in its most picturesque form ; you just see through 
the arch, and the internal face of the further 



68 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

pier is perfectly revealed. Did you ever see 
such a pier, such an arch ? Is it not most illu- 
sive? Look at that masonry. Is it not most 
like the perfection of art, and 5^et w^hat art could 
never reach ? Look at that colouring. Does it 
not appear like the painter's highest skill, and 
yet unspeakably transcend if? This is exqui- 
site • still, you have no just conception of this 
masterpiece until you get below. You go some 
little distance for this purpose, as in the vicinity 
of the bridge the rocks are far too precipitous. 
A hot and brilliant day is, of all others, the 
time to enjoy this object. To escape from a 
sun which scorches you, into these verdant and 
cool bottoms, is a luxury of itself, which dis- 
poses you to relish everything else. When 
down, I was careful of the first impression, and 
did not venture to look steadily on the objects 
about me till I had selected my station. At 
length I placed myself about 100 feet from the 
bridge, on some masses of rock, which were 
washed by the running waters, and ornamented 
by the slender trees which were springing from 
its fissures. At my feet was the soothing melody 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 69 

of the rippling, gushing waters; behind nrie, and 
in the distance, the creek and the hills were 
expanding themselves to the light and splendour 
of day; before me, and all around, everything 
was reposing in the most delightful shade, set 
oif by the streaming rays of the sun, which shot 
across the head of the picture far above you, 
and sweetened the solitude below. On the right 
and left, the majestic rocks arose, with the 
decision of a wall, but without its uniformity, 
massive, broken, beautiful, and supplying a most 
admirable foreground ; and, everywhere, the 
most delicate stems were planted in their cre- 
vices, and waving their heads in the soft breeze, 
which occasionally came over them. The eye 
now ran through the bridge, and was gratified 
with a lovely vista. The Blue Mountains stood 
out in the background; beneath them, the hills 
and woods gathered together, so as to enclose 
the dell below; while the creek, which was 
coursing away from them, seemed to have its 
well-head hidden in their recesses. Then there 
is the arch distinct from everything, and above 
everything. Massive as it is, it is light and 



70 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

beautiful by its height, and the fine trees on its 
summit seem now only like a garland of ever- 
greens; and, elevated as it is, its apparent ele- 
vation is wonderfully increased by the narrow- 
ness of its piers, and by its outline being drawn 
on the blue sky, which appears beneath and 
above it ! Oh, it is sublime — so strong, and yet 
so elegant — springing from the earth, and bathing 
its head in heaven ! But it is the sublime not 
allied to the terrific, as at Niagara; it is the 
sublime associated with the pleasing. I sat and 
gazed in wonder and astonishment. That after- 
noon was the shortest I ever remember. I had 
quickly, too quickly, to leave the spot for ever ; 
but the music of those waters, the luxury of 
those shades, the form and colour of those 
rocks, and that arch — that arch — rising over all, 
and seeming to offer a passage to the skies — 0, 
they will never leave me !" 

Leaving the Natural Bridge, we proceed to 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 71 






DIBRELL'S SPRING 



In Botetourt County, 19 miles. ^^This water- 
ing-place is 43 miles from the White Sulphur. 
The buildings here are very neat and comfort- 
able, and sufficient for the accommodation of 
about 200 persons." 

The following analysis of the water is by 
Professor Rogers : 

Solid Ingredients. 

Carbonate of soda, 
Sulphate of soda, 
Chloride of sodium, 
Carbonate of magnesia, 
Peroxide of iron, 
Silicia dissolved. 

" Organic matter containing chloride of potas- 
sium, nitrogen, carbonate of lime, and carbonate 
of ammonia. 

Gaseous Ingredients. 

Carbonic acid, 

Oxygen, 

Sulphuretted hydrogen, 

Nitrogen. 



72 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

''The water of Dibrell's Spring partakes of 
all the general characteristics of the other sul- 
phur waters, and may be used with good effects 
in all cases to which such waters are adapted. 
In certain dyspeptic depravities, especially, it 
deserves a high rank among our mineral waters." 

From Dibrell's Spring the road leads by 
Clifton Forge, 10 miles, — the scenery at this 
place is very fine, — Covington, 13 miles, and to 
Calahan's, 5 miles. 

Another route from Lynchburg is by stage to 
New London, 10 miles, to Liberty, 15 miles. 
Here we would advise the traveller to leave the 
stage, and make a visit to the Peaks of Otter. 
They are about 7 miles northwest from this 
place. The following description of them is 
from the Southern Literary Messenger : 

"After riding about a mile and a quarter, we 
came to the point beyond which horses cannot 
be taken, and, dismounting our steeds, com- 
menced ascending on foot. The way was very 
steep, and the day so warm, that we had to halt 
often to take breath. As we approached the 
summit, the trees were all of a dwarfish growth, 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 73 

and twisted and gnarled by the storms of that 
high region. There were, also, a few black- 
berry bushes, bearing their fruit long after the 
season had passed below. A few minutes longer 
brought us to where the trees ceased to grow ; 
but a huge mass of rocks, piled wildly on the 
top of each other, finished the termination of 
the peak. Our path lay for some distance 
around the base of it, and under the over- 
hanging battlements; and rather descending for 
a while, until it led to a part of the pile which 
could with some effort be scaled. There was 
no ladder, nor any artificial steps, and the only 
means of ascent was by climbing over the suc- 
cessive rocks. We soon stood upon the wild 
platform of one of nature's most magnificent 
observatories, isolated and apparently above all 
things else terrestrial, and looking down upon 
and over a beautiful, variegated, and at the 
same time grand, wild, wonderful, and almost 
boundless panorama. Indeed, it was literally 
boundless; for there was a considerable haze 
resting upon some parts of ^ the world below ;' 
so that; in the distant horizon, the earth and sky 
7 



74 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

seemed insensibly to mingle with each other. 
I had been there before. I remember when a 
boy of little more than ten years old, to have 
been taken to that spot, and how my unprac- 
tised nerves forsook me at the sublimity of the 
scene. On this day it was as new as ever; as 
wild, wonderful, and sublime, as if I had never 
before looked from those isolated rocks, or 
stood on that awful summit. On one side, 
towards Eastern Virginia, lay a comparatively 
level country, in the distance bearing strong 
resemblance to the ocean; on the other hand 
were ranges of high mountains, interspersed 
with cultivated spots, and then terminating in 
piles of mountains, following in successive 
ranges, until they were lost also in the haze. 
Above and below, the Blue Ridge and Alle- 
ghanies ran off in long lines; sometimes re- 
lieved by knolls and peaks, and in one place 
above us making a graceful curve, and then 
again running off in a different line of direction. 
Very near us stood the rounded top of the other 
peak, looking like a sullen sentinel for its neigh- 
bour. We paused in silence for a time. We were 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 75 

there almost cut ofiF from the world below, 
standing where it was fearful even to look 
down. It was more hazy than at the time of 
my last visit, but not too much so to destroy the 
interest of the scene. 

"There was almost a sense of pain, at the 
stillness which seem.ed to reign. We could 
hear the flapping of the wings of the hawks and 
buzzards, as they seemed to be gathering a new 
impetus after sailing through one of their circles 
in the air below us. North of us, and on the 
other side of the Valley of Virginia, were the 
mountains near Lexington, just as seen from 
that beautiful village, — the Jump, North, and 
House Mountains succeeding each other ; they 
were familiar with a thousand associations of 
our childhood, seeming mysteriously, when 
away from the spot, to bring my early home 
before me — not in imagination, such as had 
often haunted me when I first left to find ano- 
ther in the world, but in substantial reality. 

" Further on down the valley, and at a great 
distance, was the top of a large mountain, which 
was thought to be the Great North Mountain, 



76 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

away down in Shenandoah County — I am afraid 
to say how far off. Intermediate between these 
mountains, and extending opposite and far above 
us, was the Valley of Virginia, with its nume- 
rous and highly cultivated farms. Across this 
valley, and in the distance, lay the remote 
ranges of the Alleghany and mountains about, 
and, I suppose, beyond the White Sulphur 
Springs. Nearer us, and separating Eastern and 
Western Virginia, was the Blue Ridge, more 
than ever showing the propriety of its cognomen 
of the ' backbone ;' and on which we could dis- 
tinctly see two zigzag turnpikes, the one lead- 
ing to Fincastle, and the other to Buchanan; 
and over which latter we had travelled a few 
days before. With the spy-glass we could dis- 
tinguish the houses in the village of Fincastle, 
some 25 or 30 miles off, and the road leading 
to the town. 

" Turning towards the direction of our morn- 
ing's ride, we had beneath us Bedford County, 
with its smaller mountains, farms, and farm- 
houses — the beautiful village of Liberty, the 
county roads, and occasionally a mill-pond, re- 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 77 

fleeting the sun like a sheet of polished silver. 
The houses on the hill at Lynchburg, 25 or 30 
miles distant, are distinctly visible on a clear 
day, and also Willis' Mountain, away down in 
Buckingham County. 

'^ I had often visited Bedford, and had been 
more or less familiar with it from childhood, 
but at our elevation, distances were so annihi- 
lated, and appearances so changed, that we 
could scarcely recognise the most familiar ob- 
ject. After some difficulty, we at length made 
out the residence of Dr. M., we had that morn- 
ing left, and at that moment rendered more than 
usually interesting by containing, in addition to 
the other very dear relatives, two certain ladies, 
who sustained a very interesting connexion with 
the Doctor and myself, and one of whom had 
scarcely laid aside the blushes on her bridal 
hour. 

" A little beyond this, I recognised the former 
residence of a beloved sister, now living in a 
far distant southern state. It was the same 
steep hill ascending to the gate, the same grove 
around the house, as when she lived there, and 



78 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

the same as when I played there in my boy- 
hood. And it was the first time I had seen it 
since the change of owners. I then saw it from 
the Peaks of Otter: but it touched a thousand 
tender chords; and I almost wept when I thought 
that those I once there loved were far away, 
and that the scenes of my youthful days could 
not return. 

" Myself and companions had, some time 
before, gotten on different rocks, that we might 
not interrupt each other in our contemplations. 
I could not refrain, however, from saying to one 
of them, ' What little things we are ! how facti- 
tious our ideas of what is extensive in territory 
and distance !' A splendid estate was about 
the size I could step over; and I could stand 
and look at the very house whence I used to 
start in days gone by, and follow with my eye 
my day's journey to the spot where, wearied 
and worn, I dismounted with the setting sun. 
Yet I could look over what seemed so great a 
space, with a single glance, I could also look 
away down the Valley of Virginia, and trace the 
country, and, in imagination, the stage coach, 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 79 

as it slowly wound its way, day and night for ' 
successive days, to reach the termination of 
what I could throw my eye over in a moment. 
I was impressively reminded of the extreme 
littleness with which these things of earth would 
all appear, when the tie of life which binds us 
here is broken, and we shall all be able to look 
back and down upon them from another world. 
The scene and place are well calculated to ex- 
cite such thoughts. 

'^ It is said that John Randolph once spent the 
night on these elevated rocks, attended by no 
one but his servant; and that, when in the 
morning he had witnessed the sun rising over 
the majestic scene, he turned to his servant, 
having no other to whom he could express his 
thoughts, and charged him, 'Never from that 
time to believe any who told him there was no 
God.' 

'' I confess, also, that my mind was most for- 
cibly carried to the judgment day; and I could 
but call the attention of my companions to what 
would, probably, then be the sublime terror of 
the scene we now beheld, when the mountains 



80 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

' we saw and stood upon, should all be melted 
down like wax; when the flames should be 
driving over the immense expanse before us; 
when the heavens over us should be ' passing 
away with a great noise ;' and when the air be- 
neath and around us should be filled with the 
very inhabitants now dwelling, and busied in 
that world beneath us.'' 

After the traveller has gratified his curiosity 
beholding the Peaks of Otter, he may resume 
the stage at Liberty, and proceed on his route 
to the springs, via Bufort's, 14 miles; Fincastle, 
14 miles; Sweet Springs, 32 miles; Red Sweet, 
1 mile ; and White Sulphur, 1 6 miles. 

Visiters to the Virginia Springs from the south 
or west by the Ohio River, generally leave the 
river at Guyandotte, taking the stage to Charles- 
ton, 48 miles. This beautiful town is in the rich 
valley of the Kanawha, immediately on the 
banks of the river. About five miles from this 
place are the Salines, where are to be seen the 
Gas-Wells. The following interesting account 
of these is from the Lexington Gazette of 1843: 

" These wonderful wells have been so lately 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



discovered, that as yet only a brief and imper- 
fect notice of them has appeared in the news- 
papers. But they are a phenomenon so very 
curious and interesting, that a more complete 
description vpill doubtless be acceptable to the 
public. 

"They are, in fact, a new thing under the 
sun ] for in all the history of the world, it does 
not appear that a fountain of strong brine was 
ever before known to be mingled with a foun- 
tain of inflammable gas, sufficient to pump it 
out in a constant stream, and then by its com- 
bustion, to evaporate the whole into salt of the 
best quality. 

"We shall introduce our account of these 
wells by some remarks on the geological struc- 
ture of the country at the Kanawha Salt Works, 
and on the manner in which the salt water is 
obtained. 

"The country is mountainous, and the low 
grounds along the river are altogether alluvial, 
the whole space of a mile in width, having 
been at some time the bed of the river. The 
rocks are chiefly sandstone of various qualities, 



82 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

lying in beds, or strata, from two inches to 
several feet in thickness. These strata are 
nearly horizontal, but dipping a little, as in 
other parts of the country, towards the north- 
west. At the Salt Works they have somehow 
been heaved up into a swell above the line of 
general direction, so as to raise the deep strata 
nigher to the surface, and thus to bring those in 
which the salt water is found within striking 
distance. 

"Among the sand-rocks are found layers of 
slate and coal ; this latter being also, by the 
same upheaving, made more conveniently ac- 
cessible than in most other parts of the country. 

" The salt water is obtained by sinking a 
tight curb, or gum, at the edge of the river, 
down about twenty feet, to the rock which 
underlies the river, and then boring into the 
rock. At first the borings did not exceed 200 
feet in depth, but the upper strata of water 
being exhausted, the wells were gradually deep- 
ened, the water of the lower strata being gene- 
rally stronger than the upper had ever been. 
Until 1842, none of the wells exceeded 6 or 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 83 

700 feet in depth, Mr. Tompkins, an enter- 
prising salt-maker, was the first to extend his 
borings to a thousand feet, or more. His expe- 
riment was attended with a most unexpected 
result. He had somewhat exceeded a thousand 
feet, when he struck a crevice in the rock, and 
forth, gushed a powerful stream of mingled gas 
and salt water. Generally, the salt water in the 
wells was obtained in rock merely porous, 
and rose by hydrostatic pressure to the level of 
the river. To obtain the strong water of the 
lower strata, unmixed with the weak water 
above, it is the practice to insert a copper tube 
into the hole, making it fit tightly below by 
means of wrapping on the outside, and attach- 
ing the upper end to the pump, by which the 
water is drawn up to the furnaces on the river 
bank. 

" When Mr. Tompkins inserted his tube, the 
water gushed out so forcibly, that instead of ap- 
plying the pump, he only lengthened his tube 
above the well. The stream followed it with, 
undiminished velocity to his water cistern, 60 
feet above the level of the river. 



84 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

" In the next place, he inserted the end of the 
spout from which the water and gas flowed, 
into a large hogshead, making a hole in the 
bottom to let out the water into the cistern. 
Thus the light gas was caught in the upper part 
of the hogshead, and thence conducted by pipes 
to the furnace, where it mingled with the blaze 
of the coal fire. It so increased the heat as to 
make very little coal necessary; and if the fur- 
nace were adapted to the economical use of 
this gaseous fuel, it would evaporate all the wa- 
ter of the well, though the quantity is sufficient 
to make five hundred bushels of salt per day. 
The same gentleman has since obtained a se- 
cond gas-well near the former, and in all re- 
spects similar to it. Other proprietors of wells 
have also struck gas-fountains by deep boring. 
In one of these wells the gas forces the water 
up violently, but by fits, the gush continuing for 
some two or three hours, and then ceasing for 
about the same length of time. In another of 
these wells there has been very recently struck, 
a gas-fountain that acts with such prodigious 
violence as to make the tubing of the well in 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 85 

the usual way impossible; when the copper tube 
was forced down through the rushing stream of 
brine and gas, it was immediately flattened by 
the pressure ; and the auger-hole must be en- 
larged to adm_it a tube sufficiently strong and 
capacious to give vent to the stream without 
being crushed. In another well, a mile and a 
half from any gas-well, a powerful stream of 
gas has been recently struck. It forces up the 
water with great power; but, unfortunately for 
the proprietor, the water is too weak to be pro- 
fitably worked. It appears from this fact, that 
the gas is not inseparably connected with strong 
brine. When struck before good salt water is 
reached, it will operate injuriously, for no water 
obtained below it can rise at all, unless the pres- 
sure of the gas be taken off by means of a strong 
tube extending below it. 

^^ Several wells have been bored to a depth 
equal to that of the gas-wells, without striking 
the gas; the source of which seems to lie below, 
perhaps far below, the depth of the wells. This 
lio-ht elastic substance, wheresoever and howso- 
ever generated, naturally presses upwards for a 
8 



86 «UIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

vent, urging its way through every pore and 
crevice of the superincumbent rocks; and the 
well-borer's auger must find it in one of the nar- 
row routes of its upward passage, or penetrate 
to its native coal-bed before it will burst forth 
by the artificial vent. 

^•'The opinion just intimated, that the gas ori- 
ginates in deep coal beds, is founded on the 
fact that it is the same sort of gas that consti- 
tutes the dangerous fire-damp of coal-pits, and the 
same that is manufactured out of bituminous 
coal for illuminating our cities. It is a mixture 
of carburetted and sulphuretted hydrogen. Phi- 
losophers tell us that bituminous coal becomes 
anthracite by the conversion of its bitumen and 
sulphur into this gas, and that water acts a ne- 
cessary part in the process. Whether the pre- 
sence of salt water causes a more rapid evolution 
of the gas, the present writer will not undertake 
to say ; but somehow, the quantity generated in 
the salt region of Kanawha is most extraordi- 
nary. 

" It finds in this region innumerable small 
natural vents. It is seen in many places bub- 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 87 

bling up through the sand at the bottom of the 
river, and probably brings up sah water with it^ 
as in the gas-wells, but in small quantity. The 
celebrated burning spring is the only one of its 
natural vents apparent on dry land. This stream 
of gas, unaccompanied by water, has forced its 
way from the rocks below, through 70 or 80 
feet of alluvial ground, and within 80 yards of 
the river bank. It is near this burning spring 
where the principal gas-wells have been found ;. 
but, twenty-five years ago, or more, a gas-foun- 
tain was struck in a well 200 feet deep, near 
Charleston, 7 miles below the burning spring. 
This blew up, by fits, a jet of weak salt water 
20 or 30 feet high. On a torch being applied 
to it one night, brilliant flames played and 
flashed about the watery column in the most 
wonderful manner." 

Leaving the Salines, we pass on to the Falls 
of Kanawha, 30 miles; to Gauley Bridge, 5 
miles; and to the Hawk's Nest, 8 miles. 

Marshall's Pillar, or the Hawk's Nest, as 
it is more generally called, is in Fayette County, 
on New River, within a few yards of the Ka- 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



nawha Turnpike. This rocky precipice rises 
perpendicularly above the river, to the height 
of about 1000 feet. The following account of 
this great curiosity, given by a foreign traveller, 
is from Howe's Sketches of Virginia, to which 
work we are indebted for most of the matter 
respecting the curiosities of the state. 

" You leave the road by a little by-path, and 
after pursuing it for a short distance, the whole 
scene suddenly breaks upon you. But how 
shall we describe if? The great charm of 
the whole is connected with the point of 
sight, which is the finest imaginable. You 
come suddenly to a spot which is called the 
Hawk's Nest. It projects on the scene, and is 
so small as to give standing to only some half 
dozen persons. It has on its head an old pic- 
turesque pine ; and it breaks away at your feet, 
abruptly and in perpendicular lines, to a depth 
of more than 1000 feet. On this standing, 
which, by its elevated and detached character, 
affects you like the monument, the forest rises 
above and around you. Beneath, and before 
you, is spread a lovely valley. A peaceful 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 89 

river glides down it. reflecting, like a mirror, 
all the lights of heaven — washes the foot of the 
rocks on which 3'ou are standing — and then 
winds away into another valley at your right. 
The trees of the wood, in all their variety, stand 
out on the verdant bottoms, with their heads 
in the smi, and casting their shadows at their 
feet* but so diminished, as to look more like 
the pictures of the things than the things them- 
selves. The green hills rise on either hand and 
all around, and give completeness and beauty 
to the scene ; and beyond these appears the gray 
outline of the more distant mountains, bestowing 
grandeur to what was supremely beautiful. It 
is exquisite. It conveys to you the idea of 
perfect solitude. The hand of man, the foot of 
man, seem never to have touched that valley. 
To you, though placed in the midst of it, it 
seems altogether inaccessible. You long to 
stroll along the margin of those sweet waters, 
and repose under the shadows of those beau- 
tiful trees : but it looks impossible. It is soli- 
tude, but of a most soothing, not of an appalling 
character — where sorrow might learn to forget 



90 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

her griefsj and folly begin to be wise and 
happy." 

From the Hawk's Nest, the route is via Locust 
Lane, 2 miles ; Blue Sulphur, 40 miles ; Lewis- 
burg, 13 miles; and to the White Sulphur, 9 
miles. 



BERKELEY SPRINGS. 

Having described all the springs, of which we 
have any information, immediately on the main 
routes from the city of Washington to the White 
Sulphur, we will now give an account of all 
other watering-places within our knowledge. 
The following account of the Berkeley Springs 
has been furnished us; and although it is longer 
than the description of any other watering-place 
given in this work, we have been induced in 
consequence of their antiquity to insert the 
whole. 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 91 

" Berkeley Springs are situated in the town 
of Bath, Morgan County, Virginia, 2i miles 
from Sir John-s Depot, a point on the Baltimore 
and Ohio Railroad, 130 miles west of Baltimore, 
and 49 miles east of Cumberland, Maryland. 
A good mountain road connects with the rail- 
road, and during the bathing season, which 
lasts from the 1st of June until the 1st of Oc- 
tober, fine coaches are always in attendance at 
the depot. Three large springs, and a number 
of inferior ones, gush out from the foot of the 
Warm. Spring Ridge, all within the distance of 
70 or 80 yards, forming a bold and beautiful 
stream, which in its course down the valley 
supplies several mills and factories, and empties 
into the Potomac opposite Hancock, Maryland, 
6 miles distant. The water of all these foun- 
tains is of the same character, light, sparkling, 
and tasteless, their temperatures ranging from 
72° to 74° Fahrenheit, and their character and 
volume being in no way affected by variations 
of the weather or changes of the seasons. 
The gentlemen's bath-house, a substantial brick 
building, contains ten large bathing-rooms. The 



92 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

baths are of cement, 12 feet long, 5 feet wide, and 
4i deep, filled from a reservoir by a four inch 
pipe, and contain about 1600 gallons each. The 
luxury of these capacious plunges can only be 
appreciated by those who have tried them. 
The ladies' bath-house, on the opposite side of 
the grove, contains nine baths of similar dimen- 
sions, and adjoining this is an establishment for 
shower, spout, and artificial warm baths. The 
whole is enclosed by a beautiful grove several 
acres in extent, and handsomely improved. 

" The ownership of these springs is vested in 
a body of trustees, appointed originally by the 
Legislature of Virginia, and the improvements 
are made and kept up by means of the revenue 
derived from the annual visiters. The charges 
for the use of the baths are as follows : — Single 
bath, 25 cents; season ticket, $2 50. Children 
and servants half the above rates. Life ticket, 
$15 GO. A season ticket entitles the purchaser 
to the use of the bath during the whole bathing 
season. A life ticket entitles the purchaser and 
his immediate family to the use of the bath 
during the life of such purchaser, with the addi- 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 93 

tional fee of 50 cents per annum from each in- 
dividual to the bath-keeper. Arrangements are 
making for extending and improving the bathing 
accommodation, so as to give the public the 
full benefit of a restorative and luxury so co- 
piously supplied by nature. It has been esti- 
mated that these springs furnish water at the 
rate of 800 or 1000 gallons per minute. 

'•'Bath is the county toven of Morgan, has a 
daily mail, and contains about 250 inhabitants. 
The scenery in the neighbourhood is wild and 
picturesque, and the view from Capon Moun- 
tain, showing the junction of the Capon and 
Potomac Rivers, is quite celebrated. There are 
also, in the immediate vicinity, a number of 
fine sulphur and chalybeate springs. 

'^Although these waters possess considerable 
medicinal virtue when taken internally, yet it is 
to their external use that they chiefly owe their 
celebrity ; their delightful medium temperature, 
in connexion with other properties, adapting 
them to a wide range of diseases, and giving 
them a decided advantage over most other 
waters known in this country. They have 



94 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

never been accurately analyzed, but the pre- 
sence of purgative and diuretic salts has been 
ascertained, though the impregnation is not 
strong, and the amount uncertain. 

" This M^ater is tasteless, insipid from its 
warmth, and is so light in its character, that 
very large quantities may be taken into the 
stomach without producing oppression or- un- 
easiness. Persons generally become fond of it 
after a time, and when cooled it is a delightful 
beverage. It is beneficial in a class of chronic 
and subacute disorders, such as derangements 
of the stomach, with impaired appetite and 
feeble digestion, and chronic diseases of the 
abdominal viscera not connected with a high 
degree of organic disease. Their salutary effects 
in these cases would seem to depend upon the 
exceedingly light character of the waters, aided 
by their gentle alkaline properties, neutralizing 
acidity, and then invigorating and soothing the 
viscera. 

'^ In the early stages of calculous diseases, 
attended with irritable bladder, their free use 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 95 

internally and externally is frequently of great 
benefit. 

" Externally used, these waters are beneficial 
in the whole class of nervous disorders, espe- 
cially in those irregular anomalous diseases 
more frequently met with in females when not 
connected with a full habit or extreme debility. 
They are useful in all uterine diseases when 
active inflammation is not present. In cases 
of relaxed habit and debility, when sufficient 
power of reaction exists in the system, their 
tonic and bracing properties are very decided. 
Persons suffering from a residence in warm, 
low, and damp climates, and subject to nervous 
affections, will generally find them a complete 
restorative. They are very useful in chronic 
diseases of the mucous membrane, such as 
leucorrhcea, gonorrhcea, &c., and certain forms 
of bronchial disease arising from a relaxed con- 
dition of the membrane ; also in local paralytic 
affections unconnected with congestion of the 
brain. 

"In chronic rheumatism these baths have 
been pronounced a specific. Of their mode of 



96 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

action little is known with certainty, but the 
results are undeniable and admirable. The 
most obstinate, complicated, and troublesome 
cases invariably yield to a patient and judicious 
use of the remedy. The milder cases generally 
yield in ten days or two weeks, those of louger 
standing require a longer time for their eradi- 
cation. 

^' It is to be regretted that the results of a 
careful analysis, and a more extended medical 
notice, cannot now be given to the public; but 
probably practical experience is after all the 
best test to which a mineral water can be sub- 
jected, and this test Berkeley has stood for 
more than eighty years with increasing repu- 
tation. 

" Strother's is the principal hotel in the place. 
It adjoins the grove, and will accommodate 
comfortably about 400 persons. It is built of 
wood, on three sides of a quadrangle, 168 feet 
front by 197. The front building is four stories 
high, has a portico 130 feet long by 16 wide, a 
dining and ball-room 106 feet by 30, three large 
public parlours, and a bar-room. The wings 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 97 

are respectively two and three stories high. A 
basement of stane, fire proof, roomy, and well 
ventilated, contains the kitchen department and 
wine cellar. The court yard, about 100 feet 
square, is tastefully ornamented w^ith trees, 
flowers, and shrubbery. Besides the ordinary 
single and double chambers, this house contains 
about thirty suites of apartments, of two, three, 
and four chambers, for the accommodation of 
families. The main building, with several out- 
houses, contains 200 lodging rooms, all neat, 
well ventilated, and conveniently arranged. In 
conducting this establishment essential comfort 
is generally preferred to external appearance, 
although the latter is by no means neglected. 
The furniture is neat, new, and simple, while 
the beds and bedding are costly and of the 
finest quality. The mattrasses are of curled 
hair, and made by the best upholsterers of 
Baltimore, the table is admirably served, and 
the ice-houses capacious and unfailing. 

'' Attached to the hotel, are a fine band of 
music, billiard tables, pistol gallery, and ten-pin 
9 



98 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS, 

alleys. Riding horses, buggies, and carriages, 
are furnished for pleasure excursions. 

" O'Ferrall's hotel is conveniently situated, 
well kept, and will accommodate about 100 
persons. Other accommodation for 1 50 persons 
may be found in the place." 



HISTORICAL SKETCH OF BERKELEY SPRINGS. 

^^ These springs were resorted to by invalids 
at a very early period, and had. great celebrity 
throughout the colonies. Hundreds annually 
flocked thither from all quarters, and traditional 
accounts of the accommodations and amuse- 
ments of these primitive times are calculated to 
excite both the mirth and envy of the present 
age. Rude log huts, board and canvass tents, 
and even covered wagons, served as lodging- 
rooms, while every family brought its own 
substantial provision of flour, meal, and bacon. 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 99 

trusting for lighter articles of diet to the good 
will of the ^Hill Folk/ or the success of their 
own foragers. 

"A large hollow scooped in the sand, sur- 
rounded by a screen of pine boards, was the 
only bathing-house, and this was used alter- 
nately by ladies and gentlemen. The time set 
apart for the ladies was announced by a blast 
on a long tin horn, at which signal all of the 
opposite sex retired to a prescribed distance 
from the rustic bath-house, and woe to any un- 
lucky wight who might afterward be found 
within the magic circle. The whole scene is 
said to have resembled a camp-meeting in ap- 
pearance, but only in appearance. Here day 
and night passed in a round of eating, drinking, 
bathing, fiddling, dancing, and revelling; gaming 
was carried to great excess, and horse-racing 
was a daily amusement. 

" Dated October, 1776, in the first year of the 
common wealth, we find the following in the 
statute-book of Virginia. 



100 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



" ' An Act for establishing a Town at the Warm 
Springs, in the County of Berkeley. 

" ' Whereas, it hath been represented to the 
General Assembly, that the laying off fifty acres 
of land in lots and streets, for a town at the 
Warm Springs, in the County of Berkeley, will 
be of great utility, by encouraging the pur- 
chasers thereof to build convenient houses for 
accommodating numbers of infirm, who fre- 
quent those springs yearly for the recovery of 
their health. 

" ' Be it therefore enacted by the General 
Assembly of the Commonwealth of Virginia, 
that fifty acres of land adjoining the said springs, 
being part of a larger tract of land the property 
of the Right Honourable Thomas, Lord Fairfax, 
or other person or persons holding the same by 
a grant or conveyance from him, be and the 
same is hereby invested in Bryan Fairfax, 
Thomas Bryan Martin, Warner Washington, 
Rev. Charles M. Thurston, Robert Rutherford, 
Thomas Rutherford, Alexander White, Philip 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 101 

Pendleton, Samuel Washington, William Elb- 
zey, Van Swearengen, Thomas Hite, James 
Edmondson, James Nourse, gentlemen trustees, 
to.be by them, or any seven of them, laid out 
into lots of quarter of an acre each, with con- 
venient streets, which shall be, and the same 
is, hereby established a town by the name of 
Bath,' &c., &c., &c. — (See Hening's Statutes at 
Large.) 

'■'■ The town was consequently laid off, and a 
sale of lots made in August, 1777. Among the 
purchasers were Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, 
Horatio Gates, Gen. George Washington, and 
many others of note and distinction. 

" In the schedule to Gen. Washington's will 
we find this clause, — 



" ^ Bath, or Warm Springs. 

" ' Two well-situated and handsome buildings 
to the amount of £150—8800.' 

" And this note of the property appended to 
the schedule, — 



102 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



'''Bath. 

" '■ The lots in Bath (two adjoinmg) cost me, 
to the best of my recollection, between fifty and 
sixty pounds twenty years ago. Whether pro- 
perty there has increased or decreased in its 
value, and in what condition the houses are, I 
am ignorant, but suppose they are not valued 
too high.' 

^^The sites of these houses are still pointed 
out. In the Memoirs of the Baroness de Rei- 
desel (wife of the German General who was 
taken prisoner at the surrender of Burgoyne), 
she speaks of having passed part of the summer 
of 1779 at these springs with her invalid husband, 
and mentions having made the acquaintance of 
Gen. Washington's family there. She devotes 
a page or two of her most interesting work to 
the narration of quaint and pleasant incidents, 
illustrating their mode of life at the springs, and 
at the same time illustrating (though uninten- 
tionally) the excellent and amiable character of 
the authoress. 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 103 

'' After the revolutionary war, the accommo- 
dations at the springs were greatly improved 
and extended, but as the States progressed in 
population and prosperity a host of other bath- 
ing-places and mineral springs were discovered 
and improved. Saratoga at the north, and the 
great White Sulphur at the south, began to 
rival Berkeley in the race for public favour, and 
from the superior spirit and enterprise shown in 
their improvement soon left her far behind. 
Her register of thousands was reduced to some 
five or six hundred per annum, and her hotels 
and bath-houses seemed destined to decay. In 
1844 a fire accomplished in one night what time 
was doing gradually. Fourteen buildings, in- 
cluding the court-house and half the hotel ac- 
commodations, were destroyed. Colonel John 
Strother, lessee of this property, made imme- 
diate preparation for the erection of a hotel on 
his own ground, and by the next season (1845) 
the west wing, two stories high, was ready for 
company. The year following the east wing, 
three stories high, and part of the front was 
erected, and in 1848 the whole building was 



104 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

completed. The erection of this hotel, and the 
completion of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad 
to Cumberland, have restored Berkeley almost 
to her former prosperity, and from twelve to 
fifteen hundred persons annually register their 
names there, and enjoy the unrivalled luxury 
of her baths. 

'^ Prior to the year 1772 these springs were 
called the Frederick Springs, from Frederick 
County, and frequently the ' Warm Springs ;' 
but after the creation of Berkeley County, in 
1772, and the discovery of the Warm Springs 
in Bath County, they were called the Berkeley 
Springs. In 1820, Morgan County was created 
from Berkeley, including the springs, but the 
post-office still retains the old name, and letters 
shoulcf be directed to Berkeley Springs, Morgan 
County, Virginia." 



FAUQUIER WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

This very celebrated watering-place is in 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 105 

Fauquier County, 6 miles southwest of Warren- 
ton. The improvements are very extensive, 
and the grounds beautifully adorned. The ac- 
commodations are perhaps sufficient to enter- 
tain as many visiters as almost any other vs^ater- 
ing-place in the State. Had it been in our power, 
we should have given a fuller account of these 
springs, together with an analysis of the water. 
Beside these springs, there are numerous 
others of less note scattered through the State, 
ariiong which are 



GRAYSON WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS, 

Formerly in Grayson County, but now within 
the limits of Carroll. 

" They are located immediately on the west 
side of the Blue Ridge, on the bank of New 
River, about 20 miles south of Wytheville, in 
the midst of scenery of a remarkably wild and 
romantic character, similar to that of Harper's 



106 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

Ferry, in a region perhaps as healthy as any in 
our country ', abounding with fish and a variety 
of game. The analysis of this water, by Pro- 
fessors Rogers and Aiken, is as follows : 

"Carbonate of soda, Ai; carbonate of mag- 
nesia, 3 ; carbonate of lime, 8 ; sulphate of lime, 
2: sulphate of magnesia, 3: chloride of sodium, 
2 ; chloride of calcium, 3 ; chloride of magne- 
sium, 1|; sulphate of soda, Ai; sulphuretted 
hydrogen, carbonic acid gases. 

" The waters are said to be efhcacious in 
dyspepsia and rheumatism." 

The Hygeian Springs, in Giles County, are 
highly spoken of. 

Botetourt Springs, in Roanoke, 12 miles from 
Fincastle, were formerly quite popular. 



CURIOSITIES. 



Among some of the natural curiosities, not 
immediately on the route to the Springs, we 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 107 

find in Hampshire County, within reach of 
visiters to the Capon Springs, the " Ice Moun- 
tain." 

" It rises from the eastern bank of the North 
River, a branch of the Capon, and is 26 miles 
southwest from Winchester, and 16 miles east 
of Romney. It is about 400 or 500 feet high. 

"The west side of t?ie mountain, for about a 
quarter of a mile, is covered with a mass of 
loose stone, of light colour, which reaches down 
to the bank of the river. By removing the loose 
stone, pure crystal ice can always be found in 
the warmest days of summer. It has been 
discovered even as late as the 15Lh of Sep- 
tember ; but never in October, although it may 
exist through the entire year, and be found, if 
the rocks were excavated to a sufficient depth. 
The body of rocks where ice is found is subject 
to the full rays of the sun from nine o'clock in 
the morning until sunset. The sun does not 
have the effect of melting the ice as much as 
continual rains. At the base of the mountain is 
a spring of water, colder by many degrees than 



108 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

spring water generally is." There are several 
other natural curiosities in this county. 

" Gaudy's Castle, the fragment of a moun- 
tain in the shape of a h^alf cone, with a very 
narrow base, which rises from the banks of the 
Capon to the height of about 500 feet, presents 
a sublime and majestic appearance. The 'Tea 
Table' is about 10 miles below Caudy's Castle, 
in a deep ragged glen, 3 or 4 miles east of 
the Capon. This table is a solid rock, and 
presents the form of a man's hat standing on 
its crown. It is about 4 feet in height and the 
same in diameter. From the top issues a clear 
stream of water, which flows over the brim on 
all sides, and forms a fountain of exquisite 
beauty. The Hanging Rocks are about 4 miles 
north of Romney. There the Wappatomka 
River has cut its way through a mountain of 
about 500 feet in height. The boldness of the 
rocks, and the wildness of the scene, excite awe 
in the beholder." 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 109 



THE NATURAL TUNNEL. 

This great curiosity is in Scott County, about 
12 miles west of Estillville, the county seat. 
The following description of it is from the 
" American Journal of Geology." 

'•'To form an adequate idea of this remarka- 
ble and truly sublime object, we have only to 
imagine the creek, to which it gives a passage, 
meandering through a deep narrow valley, here 
and there bounded on both sides by walls or 
revetements, rising to the height of two or three 
hundred feet above the stream ; and that a por- 
tion of one of these chasms, instead of present- 
ing an open thorough cut from the summit to 
the base of the high grounds, is intercepted by 
a continuous, unbroken ridge, more than three 
hundred feet high, extending entirely across the 
valley, and perforated transversely at its base, 
after the manner of an artificial tunnel, and thus 
affording a spacious subterranean channel for 
the passage of the stream. 
10 



110 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

" The entrance to the Natural Tunnel, on the 
upper side of the ridge, is imposing and pictu- 
resque, in a high degree; but on the lower side, 
the grandeur of the scene is greatly heightened 
by the superior magnitude of the cliffs, which 
exceed in loftiness, and which rise perpendicu- 
larly — and in some instances in an impending 
manner — more than three hundred feet; and by 
which the entrance on this side is almost envi- 
roned, as it were, by an amphitheatre of rude and 
frightful precipices. 

" The observer, standing on the brink of the 
stream, at the distance of about one hundred 
yards below the debouchure of the Natural 
Tunnel, has, in front, a view of its arched en- 
trance, rising seventy or eighty feet above the 
water, and surmounted by horizontal stratifica- 
tions of yellowish, white, and gray rocks, in 
depth nearly twice the height of the arch. On 
his left, a view of the same mural precipice, de- 
flected from the springing of the arch in a man- 
ner to pass in a continuous curve quite, to his 
rear, and towering in a very impressive man- 
ner above his head. On his right, a sapling 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. Ill 

growth of buckeye, poplar, lindens, &c., skirt- 
ing the margin of the creek, and extending ob- 
liquely to the right, and upwards through a nar- 
row, abrupt ravine, to the summit of the ridge, 
which is here, and elsewhere, crowned with a 
timber-growth of pines, cedar, oaks, and shrub- 
bery of various kinds. On his extreme right is 
a gigantic cliff, lifting itself up perpendicularly 
from the water's edge, to the height of about 
three hundred feet, and accompanied by an in- 
sulated cliff, called The Chimney, of about the 
same altitude, rising in the form of a turret, at 
least sixty feet above its basement, which is a 
portion of the imposing cliff just before men- 
tioned." 



THE BUFFALO KNOB. 



" This is a very lofty eminence, in Floyd 
County, from the top of which the view is sub- 
lime. On the north, east, and west, the be- 
holder is amazed at the boundless succession 



112 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

of mountains rising beyond mountains — while 
far away to the south, the plain seems to stretch 
to an interminable length. On the east. The 
Knob is accessible on horseback, being two 
miles in height from the beginning of the ascent 
to the highest point; on the west it breaks off 
precipitately, and presents the shape of the ani- 
mal whose name it bears. This mountain is 
seen sixty or eighty miles, towering above all 
others. On the highest point is a space of about 
thirty acres, which is so elevated that not any 
trees grow there ; and in the warmest days of 
summer, the visiter requires thick clothing to 
protect him from the cold. The spot is covered 
with fine grass, strawberry-vines, and goose- 
berry and currant-bushes. The fruit upon them 
is of superior flavour, but it does not ripen until 
two or three months later than upon the low- 
lands." 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 113 



THE MAMMOTH MOUND. 

This curiosity is in Marshall County, about a 
quarter of a mile from the Ohio; it is 69 feet 
high, and 900 feet in circumference at the base, 
and has a fiat top about 50 feet in diameter. 

'^ A few years since a white oak, of about 70 
feet in height, stood on the summit of the 
mound, which appeared to die of age. On care- 
fully cutting the trunk transversely, the number 
of concentric circles showed that it was about 
500 years old." 



CAVES. 

Besides Weyer's, there are other caves in the 

State, which are great curiosities, two of which 

are said to be nearly equal to Weyer's. One of 

them is in Page County, about a mxile west of 

10* 



114 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

Luray, and the other in Warren County, about 
three miles south of Front Royal. 



Powell's fort valley. 

This curiosity is in Page County; and Ker- 
cheval gives the following account of it : 

"The grandeur and sublimity of this extra- 
ordinary work of nature, consists in its tremen- 
dous height and singular formation. On entering 
the mouth of the fort, we are struck with the 
awful height of the mountains on each side, 
probably not less than a thousand feet. Through 
a very narrow passage, a bold and beautiful 
stream of water rushes, called Passage Creek, 
which a short distance below works several fine 
merchant mills. After travelling two or three 
miles, the valley gradually widens, and for up- 
wards of twenty miles furnishes arable land, and 
affords settlement for eighty or ninety families, 
several of whom own very valuable farms. The 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 115 

two mountains run parallel 24 or 25 miles, and are 
called East and West Fort Mountains, and then 
are merged into one, anciently Mesinetto, now 
Masinutton Mountain, The Masinutton Moun- 
tain continues its course about 35 or 36 miles 
southerly, and abruptly terminates opposite Kei- 
sletown, in the County of Rockingham. This 
range of mountains divides the two branches of 
the Shenandoah River, called the South and 
North Forks. This mountain, upon the whole, 
presents to t?ie eye something of the shape of 
the letter Y, or perhaps more the shape of the 
houns and tongue of a wagon. 

"A few miles above Luray, on the west side 
of the river, there are three large Indian Graves, 
ranged nearly side by side, 30 or 40^ feet in 
length, 12 or 14 feet wide, and 5 or 6 feet 
high. Around them, in a circular form, are a 
number of single graves. The whole covers 
an area of little less than a quarter of an acre. 
They present to the eye a very ancient appear- 
ance, and are covered over with pine and other 
forest growth. The excavation of the ground 
around them is plainly to be seen. The three 



116 GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 

first-mentioned graves are in oblong form, pro- 
bably contain many hundreds of human bodies, 
and were doubtless the work of ages. 



PEAK KNOB, AND THE GLASS WINDOWS. 

These two curiosities, in Pulaski County, are 
thus described by Howe : 

" Peak Knob, 4 miles south of Newborn, is 
a prominent projection in Draper's Mountain, 
rising about 1,000 feet, and presenting from its 
summit a delightful and extensive landscape. 
Iron ore exists in abundance in this mountain, 
and also coal of a good quality. In its vicinity 
are mineral springs, supposed to possess valuable 
medicinal qualities, 

'' On the north bank of New River, near 
Newborn, there is a bluff called The Glass 
Windows, consisting of vertical rocks nearly 
500 feet high, and forming the immediate bank 
of the stream for a distance of four miles. They 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 117 

are considered a great curiosity. The face of 
these rocks is perforated by a vast number of 
cavities^ which no doubt lead to caves or cells 
within the mountain. Some of the cells have 
been explored, and found to contain saltpetre, 
stalactites, and other concretions." 

Howe tells us, that in Washington County, 
" westerly from Abingdon, between Three 
Springs and the North Fork of Holston, on 
Abram's Creek, in a narrow, gloomy ravine, 
bounded by a high perpendicular ledge, is a 
large waterfall, which, in one single leap de- 
scends perpendicularly 60 feet, and then falls 
about 40 feet more ere it reaches the bottom. 
The stream is about 20 feet wide." 



DISTANCES. 



FROM WASHINGTON CITY TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS, 



Route No. 1. 










Miles from 






Miles. 


Washington 


From Washington to Ac 






quia Creek Landing 


?5 


45 




To Fredericksburg, . 




14 


59 


" Junction, 




37 


96 


" Louisa, C. H., 




37 


133 


" Gordonsville, 




13 


146 


^' Charlottesville, 




21 


167 


'' M'Ghee's, . 




n 


174i 


" Cox's, . 




7 


18li 


" Brooksville, . 




4i 


186 


'^ Mountain Top, 




4 


190 


'• Waynesboro, 




4 


194 



120 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 







Miles from 




Miles. 


"Washington. 


To Staunton, 


11 


205 


" Buffalo Gap, 


10 


215 


" Oakland House, . 


10 


225 


" Deerfield, . 


2 


227 


^- Lange's, 


2 


229 


'^ Cloverdale Hotel, . 


6 


235 


" Bath Alum Springs; 


15 


250 


" Warm Springs, 


5 


255 


" Hot Springs, . 


5 


260 


'' Callahan's, . 


20 


280 


" White Sulphur Springs, 


15 


295 


" Lewisburg, . 


9 


304 


" Blue Sulphur Springs, . 


13 


317 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



121 



Route No. 2. 








Miles from 




Miles. 


Washington. 


Baltimore to Harper's Ferry- 


, 82 




Washington to Harper's 






Ferry, . 


104 




To Charlestown, 


10 


114 


'' Winchester, . 


22 


136 


*' Newtown, . 


8 


144 


" Strasburg, 


10 


154 


•' Woodstock, . 


. Hi 


165i 


'- Mt. Jackson, 


13 


I78i 


'' New Market, 


7 


185i 


^' Spartapolis, . 


6i 


192 


" Harrisonburg, 


11 


203 


'- Mt. Crawford, 


8 


211 


" Mt. Sidney, . 


7 


218 


" Staunton, 


10 


228 


Thence as in No. 1, to the 






White Sulphur, &c. 






Or from Harrisonburg, via 


L 




Augusta Springs, to the 






Warm Springs, 


60 




11 







122 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



Route No 


3. 




RICHMOND VIA CENTRAL RAILROAD. 


To Alley's, . 
" Peak's, . 


Miles. 
9 
6 


Miles from 
Richmond. 

15 


'^ Hanover Court-House, 


3 


18 


" Wickham's, . 


2 


20 


" Junction, 


7 


27 


" Noel's, . 


5 


32 


" Hewlett's, 


4 


36 


" Beaver-dam, . 


4 


40 


" Bumpass's, . 
" Frederick Hall, 


6 
5 


46 
51 


" Tolersville, 


6 


57 


" Louisa Court-House, 


6 


63 


^' Trevilian's, 


5 


68 


" Gordonsville, . 


9 


77 


" Lindsay's, 
" Cobham, 


5 
2 


82 

84 


" Campbell's, . 
" Keswick, 


3 

4 


87 
91 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



123 





Miles. 


Miles from 
Richmond 


ToShadwell, . . 


3 


94 


" Charlottesville, 


4 


98 


Thence as in No. 1 by stage 






to White Sulphur. 







Route No. 4. 

from richmond, via james river canal, to 
lynchburg, thence by stage via the natural 

BRIDGE, DIBBREl's SPRINGS, AND COVINGTON, TO 
THE WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 



To Manakintown, 
Jude's Ferry, 
Michaux's, . 
Cedar Point, 
Jefferson, 
Cartersville, . 
Columbia, . 
New Canton, 
Scottsville, . 
Rockfish, 



Miles. 


Miles from 
Richmond. 


17 




5 


22 


9 


31 


2 


33 


6 


39 


8 


47 


10 


57 


9 


66 


13 


79 


12 


91 



124 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 







Miles from 




Miles. 


Richmond. 


To Warminster, 


8 


99 


^' Hardwicksville, . 


4 ' 


103 


" Tye River, . 


5 


108 


'^ Bent Creek, . 


9 


117 


" Staple's Mills, . 


12 


129 


" Lynchburg, . 


17 


146 


" Natural Bridge, . 


38 


184 


" DibbrePs Springs, 


18 


202 


'^ Clifton Forge, 


10 


212 


'^ Covington, . 


13 


225 


" Callahan's, . 


5 


230 


^•' White Sulphur, . 


15 


245 


Route N( 


3. 5. 





LYNCHBURG TO WHITE SULPHUR. 



To New London, 


Miles. 
10 


Miles from 
Lynchburg 


" Liberty, 

" Buford's, . 


15 
14 


25 
39 


" Fincastle, 


14 


53 


" Scott's . 


18 


71 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 125 

Miles from 
Miles. Lynchburg. 

To Mountain House, . . 7 78 

" Sweet Springs, . . 9 87 

" Red Sweet, ... 1 88 

" White Sulphur, . . 16 104 

Route No. 6. 

FROM STAUNTON TO ROCKBRIDGE ALUM SPRINGS, VIA 



LEXINGTON. 



There are two routes, one 
of which is to Greenville, 
To Fairfield, 
'^ Lexington, . 
The other is to Middle- 
brook, .... 
To Brownsburg, 
" Lexington, . 
" Rockbridge Alum, 
From Rockbridge Alum to 

Bath Alum Springs, . 17 
11* 



[lies. 


Miles from 
Staunton. 


12 




11 




12 


35 


11 




12 




12 


35 


17 


52 



126 



GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 



Route No. 7. 



FROM GUYANDOTTE TO WHITE SULPHUR. 



To Charleston, 



Salines, 
Falls of Kanawha 
Gauley Bridge, 
Hawk's Nest, 
Locust Lane, 
Blue Sulphur, 
Lewisburg, . 
White Sulphur, 



From White Sulphur to Salt 

Sulphur, 
From White Sulphur to Red 

Sulphur, 
From Red Sulphur to Blue 

Sulphur, . . 



Miles. 
48 


Miles from 
Guyandotte 


5 


53 


30 


83 


5 


88 


8 


96 


2 


98 


40 


138 


13 


151 


9 


160 


26 




43 




33 





GUIDE TO THE SPRINGS. 127 





Miles. 


Miles. 


From Scottsville to Brooks- 






ville, .... 


25 




To Staunton, 


19 


44 


From Waynesboro to 






GreenvillOj 


17 




From Winchester to Jor- 






dan's White Sulphur 






Springs, .... 


6 




From Winchester to Capon 






Springs, .... 


22 




From Lexington to Coving- 






ton, 


41 




From Winchester to Rom- 






ney, .... 


43 




To Clarksburg, . 


111 


154 


'^ Parkersburg, 


83 


237 


From Fredericksburg to 






Richmond, 


62 




From Richmond to Peter- 






burg, .... 


22 




From Staunton to Parkers- 






burg, .... 


234 





CENSUS OF VIRGINIA 

FOR 185 0. 



TRANS-ALLEGHANY DISTRICT. 







m 
O 

u 
bo 






Counties. 


in 

1 


o 
u 

PR 


72 
Ol 




Barbour, 


8671 


221 


113 


9005 


Braxton, 


4123 




89 


4212 


Boone, 


3054 




183 


3237 


Brooke, '< 


4923 


100 


31 


5054 


Cabell, 


6904 


6 


389 


6299 


Carroll, 


5726 


29 


154 


6909 


Doddridge, 

Fayette, 

Floyd, 

Grayson, 

Greenbrier, 


2639 
3782 
6000 
6142 
8549 


80 
17 
15 
36 
156 


31 

156 

443 

499 

1317 


2750 
3955 
6458 
6677 
10022 


Giles, 


6859 


54 


657 


6570 


Gilmer, 


3403 




72 


3475 


Hancock, 


4040 


7 


3 


4060 


Harrison, 


11214 


26 


488 


11728 


Jackson, 


6480 


11 


53 


6544 


Kanawha, 


12002 


211 


3140 


15353 


Lee, 


9440 


40 


787 


10267 


Lewis, 


9621 


42 


368 


10031 


Logan, 
Marion, 


3533 
10438 


20 


87 
94 


3620 
10552 



CENSUS OF VIRGINIA. 



129 







O 

o 

tS-i 










60 






Counties. 




0) 


» 






•^ 




4> 








« 


> 


eS 




^ 


ai 


tS 


-u 




^ 


u 




O 




fH 


m 


EH 


Marshall, 


10050 


39 


49 


10138 


Mason, 


6843 


49 


647 


7539 


Mercer, 


4018 


27 


177 


4222 


Monongalia, 


12092 


119 


176 


12387 


Monroe, 


9062 


81 


1061 


10204 


Montgomery, 


6822 


66 


1471 


8359 


Nicholas, 


3889 


1 


73 


3963 


Ohio, 


17609 


235 


164 


18008 


Preston, 


11574 


47 


87 


11708 


Pocahontas, 


3308 


23 


267 


3598 


Pulaski, 


3613 


34 


1471 


5118 


Putnam, 


4693 


10 


632 


5335 


Raleigh, 


1735 


7 


23 


1765 


Randolph, 


5003 


39 


201 


5243 


Ritchie, 


3886 




16 


3902 


Russell, 


10867 


70 


982 


11919 


Scott, 


9325 


31 


473 


9829 


Smyth, 


6901 


197 


1064 


8162 


Taylor, 


5130 


69 


168 


5367 


Tazewell, 


8807 


75 


1060 


9942 


Tyler, 


5456 


4 


38 


5498 


Washington, 


12372 


109 


2131 


14612 


Wayne, 


4564 


7 


189 


4760 


Wetzel, 


4261 


6 


17 


4284 


Wirt, 


3319 


2 


32 


3353 


Wood, 


9008 


69 


373 


9450 


Wyoming, 


1583 


1 


61 


1645 


Wythe, 


9618 


221 


2185 


12024 




330,951 


2,709 


24,442 


358,102 



130 



CENSUS OF VIRGINIA. 



VALLEY DISTRICT. 







2 






Counties. 




OS 


ra 






-4-3 




03 






2 


0) 


1 


3 




^ 


u 




o 




fH 


53 


H 


Alleghany, 


2763 


58 


694 


3515 


Augusta, 


19024 


533 


5053 


24610 


Bath, 


2436 


43 


947 


3426 


Berkeley, 


9566 


249 


1956 


11771 


Botetourt, 


10749 


423 


3736 


14908 


Clarke, 


3615 


123 


3614 


7352 


Frederick, 


12769 


912 


2294 


15975 


Hampshire, 


12389 


214 


1433 


14036 


Hardy, 


7930 


353 


1260 


9543 


Highland, 


2853 


10 


364 


3227 


Jefferson, 


10476 


640 


4341 


15357 


Morgan, 


3431 


3 


123 


3557 


Page, 


6332 


311 


957 


7600 


Pendleton, 


5443 


30 


322 


5795 


Roanoke, 


5813 


154 


2510 


8477 


Rockbridge, 


11484 


364 


4197 


16045 


Rockingham, 


17498 


465 


2331 


20294 


Shenandoah, 


12595 


262 


911 


13768 


Warren, 


4492 


367 


1748 


6607 




161,658 


5414 


38,791 


205,863 



CENSUS OF VIRGINIA. 



131 



PIEDMONT DISTRICT. 



Counties. 




CO 

a> 

2 


m 






■u 




aj 








as 


fo- 


ej 




'B 


ffl 


ci 


-M 




^ 




m 


O 


Albemarle, 


11876 


586 


13338 


25800 


Amelia, 


2794 


157 


6819 


9770 


Amherst, 


6353 


393 


5953 


12699 


Appomattox, 


4210 


184 


4799 


9193 


Bedford, 


13556 


463 


10061 


24080 


Brunswick, 


4895 


543 


8456 


13894 


Buckingham, 


5426 


250 


8161 


13837 


Campbell, 


11538 


841 


10866 


23245 


Charlotte, 


4605 


362 


8988 


13955 


Culpeper, 


5111 


488 


6683 


12282 


Cumberland, 


3083 


339 


6329 


9751 


Dinwiddle, 


10985 


3253 


11468 


25706 


Faquier, 


9875 


643 


10350 


20868 


Franklin, 


11638 


66 


5726 


17430 


FluTanna, 


4533 


217 


4737 


9487 


Greene, 


2667 


34 


1699 


4400 


Goochland, 


3854 


653 


5845 


10352 


Halifax, 


11006 


504 


14462 


25972 


Henry, 


5324 


208 


3340 


8872 


Loudon, 


15081 


1354 


5641 


22076 


Louisa, 


6423 


404 


9864 


16691 


Lunenburg, 


4310 


195 


7187 


11692 


Madison, 


4458 


149 


4724 


9331 


Mecklenburg, 


7256 


912 


12429 


20597 


Nelson, 


6478 


138 


6142 


12758 


Nottoway, 


2251 


136 


6050 


8437 


Orange, 


3962 


184 


5921 


10067 


Patrick, 


7197 


88 


2324 


9609 


Pittsylvania, 


15263 


735 


12798 


28796 



132 



CENSUS OF VIRGINIA. 



Counties. 


CO 


DO 

o 
M 

'^, 


02 


3 

o 


Prince Edward, 

Powhatan, 

Rappahannock, 


4177 
2532 
5642 


488 
364 
296 


7192 
5282 
3844 


11857 
8178 
9782 




218,359 


15,627 


237,478 


471,464 



TIDE-WATER DISTRICT. 







to 






Counties. 


m 


^ 








-iJ 




a> 


i-S 














,£! 


a; 


ci 






^ 










PR 


02 


H 


Alexandria, 


7218 


1408 


1382 


10008 


Accomack, 


9742 


3161 


4987 


17890 


Charles City, 


1664 


772 


2764 


5200 


Caroline, 


6892 


903 


10661 


18456 


Chesterfield, 


8402 


468 


8616 


17486 


Essex, 


3025 


419 


6762 


10206 


Elizabeth City, 


2341 


97 


2148 


4586 


Fairfax, 


6835 


597 


3250 


10682 


Greensville, 


1731 


123 


3785 


5639 


Gloucester, 


4290 


680 


5557 


10527 



CENSUS OF VIRGINIA. 



133 



Counties. 


TO 


CO 


CO 








o 


fe- 


"cS 




iS 


?^ 


ci 


-M 




^ 


f-l 

PR 


m 


o 

EH 


Hanover, 


6541 


219 


8393 


15153 


Henrico, 


23732 


3663 


16042 


43437 


Isle of Wight, 


4724 


1234 


3395 


9353 


James City, 


1489 


663 


1868 


4020 


King George, 


2303 


265 


3403 


I ^971 


King & Queen, 


4094 


461 


5764 


' 10319 


King William, 


2702 


346 


5731 


8779 


Lancaster, 


1805 


263 


2640 


4708 


Mathews, 


3644 


147 


2923 


6714 


Middlesex, 


1903 


149 


2342 


4394 


Nansemond, 


5425 


2143 


4715 


12283 


New Kent, 


2221 


433 


3410 


6064 


Norfolk, 


4907 


823 


4354 


10084 


Northumberland, 


3072 


519 


3755 


7346 


Northampton, 


3105 


745 


3648 


7498 


Princess Anne, 


4280 


259 


3130 


7669 


Prince George, 


2670 


518 


4408 


7596 


Prince William, 


5081 


550 


2498 


8129 


Richmond, 


3462 


709 


2277 


6448 


Stafford, 


4415 


318 


3311 


8044 


Southampton, 


5971 


1795 


5755 


13521 


Spottsylvania, 


6903 


527 


7481 


14911 


Surry, 


2215 


985 


2479 


5679 


Sussex, 


3086 


742 


5992 


9820 


Warwick, 


598 


43 


905 


1546 


Westmoreland, 


3410 


1113 


3557 


8080 


York, 


1825 


454 


2181 


4460 


Norfolk City, 


9113 


912 


4295 


14320 


Petersburg City, 


C( 


(( 


a 


K 


Portsmouth City, 


6345 


530 


1751 


8626 


Kichmond City, 


" 


a 


(( 


« 




183,181 


30,156 


172,315 


385,652 



12 



134 



CENSUS OF VIRGINIA. 







O 






DISTRICTS. 




1^ 




'3 

o 


Total of Tide-water Dist., 


183181 


30156 


172315 


385652 


" " Piedmont " 


218359 


15627 


237478 


471464 


" " Valley " 


161658 


5414 


38791 


205863 


« " Trans-AUeg. " 


330951 


2709 


24442 


358102 


Grand Total, 


894,149 


53,906 


473,026 


1,421,081 



NOTE. 



During the latter part of the session of the 
Legislature of 1851, three nev/ counties were 
formed, one of which to be called Craig, out of 
parts of the counties of Botetourt, Giles, Monroe, 
and Roanoke ; one to be called Upshur, out of 
parts of the counties of Randolph, Barbour, and 
Lewis; and the other to be called Pleasants, out 
of parts of the counties of Wood, Tyler, and 
Ritchie. 



WESLEYAN FEMALE INSTITUTE. 135 



WESLEYAN FEMALE INSTITUTE, STAUNTON, VA. 

This school is under the patronage and con- 
trol of the Baltimore Conference of the M. E. 
Church. It is designed to furnish, at a cheap 
rate, facilities for a thorough education, equal to 
those of the best schools. The several depart- 
ments are in the charge of competent teachers. 
Diplomas are given to those who complete the 
prescribed course of study. The building is 
commodious, and is in all respects arranged for 
the convenience and comfort of pupils. 



VIRGINIA FEMALE INSTITUTE, STAUNTON, VA. 

Rev. R. H. Phillips, A. M., Principal. 
Rev. J. C. Wheat, A. M., Vice Principal. 

Assistants. — Rev. T. T. Castleman, Prof. C. 
Roux, Prof. Engelbrecht, Miss Hilleary, Miss 
Coleman. 



136 VIRGINIA FEMALE INSTITUTE. 

Matron. — Miss Nelson. 

Trustees.— Rt Rev. Wm. Meade, D. D., Pre- 
sident. 

Rev. T. T. Castleman, Vice President. 

William Kinney, Esq., T. J. Michie, Esq., 
Doct. T. T. Stribling, Doct. E. Berkeley, B. 
Crawford, Esq., Robl. S. Brooke, Esq., James 
Points, Esq. 

N. K. Trout, Esq., Secretary. 

Number of pupils present session, ninety-one. 

Next session will commence on Wednesday, 
August 27th. 

Board and tuition in the English course per 
session of ten months, $160. 

Music. — Harp, piano, organ, and guitar, extra 
charges. 

Languages. — Latin, French, Italian, and Spa- 
nish, each $20. 

Drawing and painting, different styles, extra 
charges. 

For circulars, &c., address the principal. 

Staunton, April 22d, 1851. 



FARISH & GO'S STAGE ROUTES. 



William P. Farish & Co.'s Stage Lines oifer 
great inducements to the travelling public. 
There is, perhaps, no Stage Company in the 
United States prepared to accommodate with so 
much comfort, safety, and convenience to the 
traveller, as Farish & Co.'s. Their coaches are 
new, handsome, and elegantly fitted up : their 
horses are well broken, and for appearance and 
speed unsurpassed ; their agents are polite and 
accommodating, and their drivers are expe- 
rienced, capable, and cautious. They have the 
means to accommodate the public, and will on 
no occasion spare them. The following is a 
schedule of their respective routes : 
12* 



138 FARISH AND CO.'s STAGE ROUTES. 



FROM CHARLOTTESVILLE TO STAUNTON. 

Leaves Charlottesville daily at 2 P. M., ar- 
rives at Staunton (the night stand) at 9 P. M. 



WINCHESTER TO STAUNTON. 

Mail Line. — Leaves Winchester daily — except 
Sundays — at 4 P. M., arrives at Staunton next 
day at 8 A. M. 

Daylight Line of Omnibusses. — Leaves Win- 
chester Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 
4 A. M., and arrives at Staunton same days at 
6 P. M. 



FROM STAUNTON TO WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

Leaves Staunton Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
Fridays (daily from June to Oct.,) at 9^ A. M., 



PARISH AND CO.'S STAGE ROUTES. 139 

arrives at Cloverdale same days at 6 P. M. 
Leaves Cloverdale Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
Saturdays, at 4 A. M., and arrives at White Sul- 
phur at 7 P. M. same days. 



FROM LYNCHBURG TO WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 

Leaves Lynchburg Mondays, Wednesdays, 
and Fridays, at 4 A. M., arrives at Fincastle 
same days at 7 P. M. Leaves Fincastle Tues- 
days, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 4 A. M., and 
arrives at White Sulphur at 7 P. M. same days. 



LYNCHBURG TO SALEM. 



Leaves Lynchburg Mondays, Wednesdays, 
and Fridays, at 4 A. M., and arrives at Salem 
at 7 P. M. same days; connecting with the 
Staunton and Wythe ville line at that point. 



140 PARISH AND CO.'S STAGE ROUTES. 



FROM STAUNTON TO WYTHEVILLE. 

Leaves Staunton Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
Saturdays, at 9i A. M., and arrives at Lexington 
same days at 6 P. M. (daily in summer), and 
leaves Lexington Wednesdays, Fridays, and 
Sundays, at 3^ A. M., breakfasts at the Na- 
tural Bridge, and arrives at Salem at 7 P. M. 
same days. Leaves Salem Thursdays, Satur- 
days, and Mondays, at 4 A. M., and arrives at 
Wythe ville same days at 6 P. M. Leaves 
Wytheville Fridays, Sundays, and Tuesdays, 
at 2 A. M., and arrives at Bluntsville, Tenn., 
same days at 10 P. M. Leaves Bluntsville Sa- 
turdays, Mondays, and Wednesdays, at 4 A. M., 
and arrives at Knoxville, Tenn., same days at 
10 P. M. 



STAUNTON TO RICHMOND VIA SCOTTSVILLE. 

Leaves Staunton Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
Fridays, at 4 A. M., via Scottsville to Richmond 



FARISH AND CO.'s STAGE ROUTES. 141 

by packet-boats, and arrives next day at 7 A. M. 
in Richmond. 



STAUNTON VIA CHARLOTTESVILLE TO RICHMOND. 



Leaves Staunton daily, at 10 A. M., arrives at 
Charlottesville at 6 P. M., and next morning to 
Richmond by railroad, to early dinner. 



WHITE SULPHUR TO GUYANDOTTE. 

Leaves White Sulphur Mondays, Wednes- 
days, and Fridays, arrives at Charleston next 
days at 6 P. M., and the following days to Guy- 
andotte to dinner. 

Extra coaches furnished at all points, and a 
liberal amount ot baggage allowed each pas- 
senger. 

WM. P. FARISH & CO. 

February, 1851. 



EOBEET COWAN, 

BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER, 

Has for sale a large assortment of Miscel- 
laneous, Medical, Law, Theological, School and 
Blank Books, and a general variety of English, 
French, and American Stationery of the best 
quality, including Letter, Cap, Note, and other 
papers, at wholesale and retail. 

He has on hand, or can supply at short notice, 
all or any of the books and maps named in 
the following pages. 

All orders will be answered with promptness 
and despatch. 

Staunton, Va., May 1, 1851. 



VALUABLE SCHOOL BOOKS, 

PUBLISHED BY- 

THOMAS, COWPERTHWAIT &C0, 

PHILADELPHIA, 

AND FOR SALE BY BOOKSELLERS GENERALLY THROUGH 

OUT THE UNITED STATES. 



MITCHELL'S AMERICAN SYSTEM OF STANDARD 
SCHOOL GEOGRAPHY, 

IN A SERIES; ADAPTED TO THE PROGRESSIVELY DEVELOPING 
CAPACITIES OF YOUTH. 

Mitchell's School Series has been wholly or partly introduced 
into the Public and Private Schools of the principal Cities and 
Towns of the United States. 

Mitcliell's Primary Geography. 

An easy Introduction to the Study of Geography; desisjned for the Instruction of 
Children in Sclioolsand Families; Illusirated by 120 En^avingsjuid 14 coloured 
Maps. By S. J.ugvstus Mitchell. Price, 38 cents 

This work has been introduced into the Public Schools of Boston, New York, 
Philadelphia, Baltimore, New Orleans, St. Louis, Louisville, Cincinnati, Pitts- 
burg, and many other cities and towns in the United States, and is in general use in 
the Private Schools throughout the whole country. 

Mitchell's Intermediate or Secondary Geo" 
graphy. 

In fhis-fvork, the maps and the entire reading matter are prinitu together, and 
form one convenient quarto volume. 

The whole is so arranged, that the maps, the description nf each country, and 
the questions dependent on them, are placed generally on the same page, or on 
pages directly opposite, enabling pupils to refer readily from one to the other, 
rendering the use of two separate books unnecessary, and affording the required 
J'.mount of instruction in a more portable and convenient form. 

This publication corresponds, in style of embellishment, colourinj, arrangement 
of lessons, and general scope of compositi«in, to the oiher Geographical VC'orks of 
Mr, Mitchell, so as to form a connecting link in the Series in progress, of which 
the Primary Geography, the School Geography and Atlas, and the Ancient Gw- 
graphy and Atlas, already published, form a part. Price, 75 cents. 



Published by Thomas, Cowperthwait ^ Co. 



Mitchell's Scliool Geography* 

A System of Modern Geography ; comprising a Description of the present State 
of the World, and its five great Divisions. Embellished with numerous En- 
gravings, and illustrated by an Atlas of 28 Maps, drawn and engraved for the 
work. Second revised edition. By S. Augustus MitchelL Price, $1 IZj. 

From the Teachers of Public Schools in the City of New York, 
We have examined "Mitchell's School Geography," and the Atlas that accom- 
panies it, with considerable care, and must give it the preference to any work of 
the kind with which we are acquainted. Its merits are numerous, — the definitions 
are remarkably plain and concise, — Ihe exercises are copious and important, and 
the descriptive department is luminous and correct. The divisions of the American 
Continent are represented and described as they really exist at Ihe present time, 
and the gross mis-statements generally found in school Geographies are corrected. 
The typographical execution is uncommonly neat and distinct. Indeed the Atlas 
is a model of the kind, and actually teems with information. The Geography is 
embellished with some hundreds of neat and well-executed engravings, which 
illustrate and greatly enhance Ihe value of the work. 

DAVID PATTERSON, M. D., Prin. Public School No. 3. 

WILLIAM RELDEN, A. M., Prin, Public School No. 2. 

JNO. W. KETCHUM, Principal of Public School No. 7. 

LEONARD HAZELTINE, Prin. of Public School No. 14. 

JOHN PATTERSON, Public School No. 4. 

WM. A. WALKER, Public School No. 15. 

ABM. K. VAN NECK, Public School No. 16. 

WM. FORREST, Principal of Collegiate School. 

CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 
Board of Controllers of Public Schools, Ist School District of Pennsylvania. 
At a meeting of the Board, the Committee of Supplies offered the following 
resolution : 

Resolved, That "Mitchell's School Geography and Atlas," — last edition — ^be 
introduced as a class-book into the Public Schools of the First School District. 
The above resolution was agreed to. 
From the minutes. 

R. PENN SMITH, Secretary. 

The following Teachers have recommended the Geographical Works in strong 

terms. 
JOHN FROST, Professor of the High School. 
WM. VOGDES, Professor of the High School. 

WM. ROBERTS, Principal Teacher in the Moyamensing Public School. 
ANN DOLRY, Principal Teacher in the Moyamensing Public School forGirls, 
JOHN M. COLEMAN, Principal of the New Market Street Public School. 
W. W. WOOD, Principal of the South-West Public School for Boys. 
JAMES RHOADS, Principal cf North-West Grammar School. 
JANE MITCHELL, Principal of North-West School for Girls. 
WM. S. CLEAVENGER, Principal of the Locust Street Public School. 
W. H. PILE, Principal of (he NorthEastern Public SchooL 
LYDIA E. SMITH, Principal S. W. School for Females. 

A. C. HUITON, Principal of Lombard Street School. 
BELINDA TAYLOR, Principal of the N. E. Girls' School. 

LEONARD BLISS, Jr., Professor of Belles-Lettres and History, Louisville Col- 
lege, Ky. 
FRANCIS E. GODDARD. Louisville, Ky. 

JOHN FREEMAN CLARKE, Agent of City Schools, Louisville, Ky. 
D. M. GAZLAY, Louisville, Ky. 

B. B. SMITH, Super, of Public Instruction for the Commonwealth of Ky. 
CHARLES CRANE, Principal Prep. Dep. Trans. University, Ky. 
EDWARD WINTHROP, Prof, of Sacred Literature in the Then. Sem. of Ky. 
JOSIAH GAVER, Principal of the Ciiy Public Schools, Lexington, Ky. 



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The Primary Scliool Reader, Part !•, 

Which is intended fnr beginners. It contains a lesson upon each of the Elemen- 
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Price, 80 cents. 

The Instructive Reader, 

A Course of Reading in Natural History, Science, and Literature. 

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This popu'ar series of books was compiled by Mr. William D. Swan, the well- 
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BARNUM FIELD, Princiial of the Franklin Hi?h Schml, Boston. 

D. P. PAGE, Principal of the New Y"ik Slate Normal School, Albany. 
P. H. SWRETSER, do. Harvard School, Charlestown. 
ELBRIDGE SMITH, do. Classical and English High School, Cambridge. 

C. C. DAME, do. English H'gh School, N-wbury port. 
GEORGE NEWCOMB, Teacher cf Quincy G amnnr School, 

E. WYM AN, Principal of the English and Cla=sicai High School, St. Louis, Mo. 
CHARLES A. LORD, A. M., lite Professor in Marion College, Ohio. 

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This popular work has attracted much attention, and has already been very ex- 
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Publishers. 

Primary Pliysiologyj «S&c. 

By Edward Jarvis, M. D. Half roan. Price, 50 cents. 
School Committees and Teachers are invited to examine these popular books. 

A MANUAL OF CHEMISTRY, 

On the basis of Dr. Turner's Elements of Chemistry, containing, in a condensed 
form, all the most important Facts and Principles of the Science. Designed as a 
Text Book in Colleges and other Seminaries of learning. A new edition. By 
John Johjiston, M. M., Professor of Natural Science in Wesleyan University. 
Price, ^1 25. 

Joliuston's Turner's Elementary Cliemistryj 

For the use of Common Schools. 1 vol. 18mo. Price, 75 cts. 

Johnston's Natural Pliilosopliy* 

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SMITH'S MATHEMATICAL SERIES. 

American Statistical AritlimctiCf 

Designed for Academies and Schools. By Francis H. Smith, A. M., Superintend- 
ent and Professor of Mathematics in the Virgmia Military Institute; late Pro- 
fessor of Mathematics in Hanipden-Sydney College, and formerly Assistant Pro- 
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Price, 38 cents. 

Introduction to Smitli and Duke's Arithmetic* 

Ey Francis H. Smith, A. M. Price 20 cents. 

Key to Smith, and Duke's American Statistical 
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Smith's Algehra* 

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Smith's Biot. 

jl An Elementary Treatise on Analytical Geometry. Translated from the French 
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Published by Thomas, Cowperthwait Sr Co. 
Mitclicli's Ancient Geography. 

An Ancient, Classical and Sacred Geography; embellished with Engravings of 
Remarkable Events, Views of Ancient Cities, and various interesting Antique 
Remains; and illustrated by an Ancient Atlas. By 5. Augustus Mitchell. 
Price, «i;l 23cts. 

A good system of Ancient Geography, in the English language, dravrn from 
authentic sources, with cuts illustrative of Ancient customs, places, temples, and 
other buildings and remarkable events, accompanied with a complete set of Maps 
of the World as known to the ancients; Asia Minor, Greece, Italy, the Roman 
Empire ; the world as known to the Israelites, a Map of Canaan, with part of 
Egypt, and the route of the Israelites through the Desert; plans of Ancient Rome, 
Jerusalem, &c., was very much wanted by teachers of Sabbath Schools, and the 
members of Bible Classes ; and such a one, so far as we are able to judge, we are 
happy to say, is now presented to the public in a very attractive form. The cuts 
in the Geography are exceedingly well done, and the Maps in the Atlas are equally 
well engraved, and eqnally well printed. — Ntiu York Christian Advocate. 

Mitcliell's Biblical and Sabbatli Scliool Geo~ 
grapliy. 

This work, with appropriate Maps and embellishments, is now in progress, and 
will be published early in the ensuing snas'm. Though hitherto greatly needed, no 
book of the kind proposed, suitable for the instruction of younger pupils in families 
and sabbath schools, has yet appeared. The attention nf the publishers has been 
recently called to the subject, by the suggestions of gentlemen deeply interested in 
the relisious instruction of youth, and who are desirous that a treatise, moderate in 
price and dimensions, illustrating the geography of the Holy Land, together with 
that of the other regions mentioned in Scripture, specially adapted to the end pro- 
posed, should be published. 

For the basis of the proposed work. Fart Second of Mitchell's Ancient Geogra- 
phy, to which it is similar in scope and design, will be adopted. As in that trea- 
tise, besides the requisite geographical notices proper to the subject, such historical 
incidents connected therewith will be interwoven with the narrative, as will ren- 
der the local descriptions more interesting, and an examination of the various texts 
referred to will doubtless enable pupils to acquire a more distinct understanding of 
the geograjihy and history of the sacred volume. 

Mitcliell's Atlas of Outline Maps* 

An accompaniment to the School Atlas. Possessing all the advantages to be de- 
rived from Map-di-awing, with a great saving of time. Price, 34 cents. 

Mitclicll's Key 

To the Study of Maps, comprising his Atlas, in a series of Lessons for beginners 
in Geography, Price, 17 cents. 

Mitcliell's High. Scliool Geography, 

With an Atlas, (preparing,) will contain about 800 pages, and comprise a complete 
system of Mathematical, Physical, Political, Statistical and Descriptive Modern 
Geography, together with a Compendium of Ancient Geography, illustrated by 
Engravings execu'ed by the first Artists of the country. The Atlas to accom- 
pany the above will contain not less than 30 Maps, constructed particularly for 
the work, and designed- to correspond with and illustrate it in the most precise 
manner. 

A Complete Key to Mitchell's School Geography, 

BY J. E. CARROLL, 

Containing full answers to all the Questions on Maps, with much additional infor- 
matiiin from the most recent and authentic sources. 12mo. half roan, $1 00. 



Published by Thomas, Cowperthwaii 4* Co. 

A new and greatly Improved Eldition of 
Mitchell's Uiaiversal Atlas* 

Comprised in Bpventy-five imperial quarto sheets, on which are engraved, in 
the very first style of ih- graphic art one huudred and twenty-two Maps, Plans, 
aad Sections. The MAPS lepresenl all !he known countries on the globe ; the 
PLANS, the mnst prominent cities in tlie United Statesj and the SECTIONAL 
MAPS, the vicinities of the chi^f cities of Eurofte. 

The results of the latest geographical and nauti-cal discoveries are to be found 
on the Maps, including those of the most recent date by Wilkes, Nicollet, and 
Fremont. The geography of the diii' rent divisions of the Western Hemisphere 
is exhibited, with a fullness and cmnpleteness of detail, not to be found in any 
other work of the kind hitherto published in this country or elsewhere. Besides 
authentic delineations of all the States and Territories of the Union, in Counties, 
the Atlas contains correct Maps of the British North American Provinces, as 
well as of all the other North and South American Stites and Colonies; separate 
Maps of Ihe Empirts, Kingdoms, Republics, and smaller divisions of Europe ; 
and of the principal Countrifs of Asia; also of Africa and Oceanica, the latter 
including the great insular divi>ions of Malaysia, Australasia, and Polynesia; 
besides a well engraved and coloured representation of the Heights of the principaj 
Mountains in the world. 

Mitcliell's new revised large Map of the 
United States^ 

Containing the Counties in the States, distinctly defined, Railroads and Canals; 
handsomely coloured, and mounted ou rollers. 

Mitcliell's new revised Map of tlie Worldj on 
Mercator's Projectionj 

Handsomely coloured, and mounted on rollers. 

Mitcliell's Counting-House Map of th.e United 
States^ 

On rollers and in pocket-book form, containing Railroads, Canals, &c 

Mitcliell's celeljrated Pocket Maps 

Of each State in the Union, of England, and of North and South America. 

Mitcliell's View of the Heavensj 

One volume, quarto, illustrated. (In preparation.) 

Mitchell's new Traveller's Guide through the 
United States, 

Containing the principal Cities, Towns, &c.. alphabetically arranged; together 
with the Railroad, Stage, Stenmboat, and Caial Routes, with the distances, in 
miles, from place to place. Illustrated by an accurate Map of Ihe United Slates. 

*** MUcheWs Maps, throughout the United States, are well known to be the 
most accurate, and the lest executed, of any published in this country. 



Published by Thomas, Cowperthioait 4* Co. 

URCULLU'S SPANISH GRAMMAR. 

A Grammar of the Spanish L^n^uaee, bnsed on the system of D. Jose de Urcidlu ; 
also with reference to the Publications of the Academy of Spain, the Works of 
Hernandez and Josse, aid the Compendium of Don Au^ustin Munoz Alvarez, 
of tlie College of Seville. According to the seventh Paris edition of Urcullu's 
Works, by Fayette Robi-nsoii. Price, SI. 

Gramatica Ing'esa, reducida a Veinte y dos Leccinnes, por J). Jose de Urcullu. 
Ediciou pnmeri Americana de la Septima de Paris. Aumentada y Revista por 
Fayette Robinson. Price, S 1. 

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Bridge's Algebra^ 

Revised and corrected from the eighth London edition. Price, 67 cents. 

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practice in Written Arithmetic. 

S^Tvan and Ijeach's Primary School Arith- 
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GUY ON ASTRONOMY and KEITH ON THE GLOBES. Thirtieth Ame- 
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Revised, edited, and enlarged, by James D. Johnson, Jl. M. 12mo. Half roan. 
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GREENE'S ANALYSIS. 

A TREATISE ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE : 
or the Analysis and Classification of Sentences and Iheir Coa pjnent Parts j with 
Illustrations and Exercises, adapted to the Use of Schools. By Samuel S. 
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delphia, IS4S. Price, 45 cts. This work has already reached the sixth edition 
in the space of four months. 

From the Christian Review. 
We like the book much — it is just what is wanted in our Grammar Schools; 
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is developed with great consistency and logical ability. 

Copri of a Letitir from Mr. Elbridge Smith, Principal of the Cambridge Sigh 
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Dear Sir — T have examined with great pleasure the Grammar which you did me 
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English Grammar in existence. This, I am aware, some will regard as extra 
vagant praise, 1 am not, however, alone in my opinion. Itideed, I know of no 
one, who has given attention to the subject, who is not of the same opinion, 

Greene's First Ijessons in Englisli Grammar^ 

Based upon the Construction and Analysis of Sentences : designed as an Introduc- 
tion to the Analysis. 
A few testimonials are subjoined : — 

City of Boston — In School Committee. 
Ordered, That Greene's First Lessons in Grammar take the place of Allen H. 
Weld's Abridgment, subject to the conditions prescribed by the regulations. 

Attest: S. F. M'CLEARY, Secretary. 

From M, F. Cotvderey, late Chairman of the Executive Committee of the Ohio 
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its general introduction into the Schools of Ohio. 

These books are introduced in the Public Schools of Boston, Cincinnati, St. 
Louis, Vicksburg, and into many towns in New York, Ohio, and other States. 

FROST'S HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES, 

History of the United States^ 

For the use of Schools and Academies. By John Frost. Illustrated wirh Forty 
Engravings. 12mo. Price, 83 cents. 

Frost's History of the United States, 

For the use of Common Schnnis, condensed from the author's large History of the 
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By John Frost, author of the History of ihe United States. 12mo. Price, S3 cts. 



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PINNOCK'S SCHOOL HISTORIES. 

Piimoclc's England) Revised E^ditioii. 

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College, Dublin, author of a Manual of Ancient and Modern History, &c. &c. 
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Pinnoclc's Greece, Revised Eldition* 

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Pinnoclc's Rome, Revised Eidition* 

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Pinnock's France. 

History of France and Normandy, from the earliest times to the Revolution of 
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attend them in England. Price, STj- cents. 

OUTLINES OF THE HISTORY OF ENGLAND, by G. »J-a)-(ft, with numer- 
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OUTLINES OF GRECIAN HISTORY, by the Rev. B. Bouchitr, M. A., with 

Maps, Views, and Questions. Price, STg cents. 

OUTLINES OF ROMAN HISTORY, by G. Hogarth, with numerous Cuts and 

Questions for Scholars. Price, 37^ cents. 

OUTLINES OF AMERICAN HISTORY, with numerous Engravings, ard 
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OUTI^$NES OF THE HISTORY OF FRANCE. Price, 37^ cents. 
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OUTLINES OF BOTANY, by C. List, Esq. On the basis of the Sixth London 
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OUTLINES OF ASTRONOMY, by the Rev. Professor Hall. Edited by C. List, 

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THE ImD-FHlfi^RTlF^ 

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